Review: Doladira Aperitivo

Summer is spritz season, and there’s a new low-sugar aperitif on the market that seeks to put an Alpine spin on this most refreshing of warm-weather cocktails. Doladira creator Meredith Erickson first introduced an early version of the product as a rhubarb elixir in her 2019 cookbook, Alpine cuisinebut its popularity with readers prompted her to refine it and offer it to the general public.

The name is a mix of Dolomites, the famous Alpine mountain range, and to blushthe ancient Dolomite word for the pink glow that bathes mountain peaks. True to its name, Doladira is made from a variety of alpine plants, including gentian, elderflower, pine and rosemary, as well as rhubarb, plum and black carrot. It contains no artificial additives or added sweeteners. In fact, Doladira is said to have 60% less sugar than leading apéritifs. Will it change the world of spritzing forever? Let’s find out.

Right off the bat, the reduced sugar content is noticeable with a crisp, resinous nose of pine bark, dried rosemary and cooked root vegetables. It doesn’t exactly scream summertime drinking, but there’s still a freshness to the aroma that’s appealing. The sweetness finally comes through on the palate, but it’s still considerably restrained, especially compared to Aperol or Campari. There’s a bracing bitterness at the top of the sip that quickly softens into gently sweet notes of plum juice, rose water and runny rhubarb tart filling. The finish is a little heavy with cooked dark fruit, but a bit of lemon zest and licorice add welcome brightness. The reduced sweetness is to be commended, but some aperitif purists might wish for a bit more bitterness. In a classic spritz, the dark fruits are still a bit moody but come across as more candied with raspberry and black cherry. In the right cocktail, it can add an interesting layer of flavor, but it’s no substitute for the ruby ​​red classics.

44 proofs.

B+ / $40 (BUY IT NOW ON RESERVEBAR)

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