Math is Math at Max Mara

Science, technology, engineering, and mathematics (STEM) and style don’t necessarily mix. Ask any fashion designer how they do in pre-calculus. But for Max Mara creative director Ian Griffiths, math and science have more applications in fashion than you might think. After a runway show inspired by Nobel Prize winner Selma Lagerlöf, Griffiths turned his attention to another female pioneer: Hypatia, a mathematician, astronomer, and philosopher who lived in Alexandria in the fourth century. She was one of the first female mathematicians in history, and her geometric and trigonometric discoveries found their way into this season’s sharply angled couture pieces.

The colors on display were also inspired by the bubbling flasks of a laboratory, including silver nitrate and copper oxide. Vittoria Ceretti opened the show in a brown suit and white shirt worn over a black bra, and the collection emphasized neutral tones, which flattered silhouettes.

As we know, science is not a perfectly ordered field. Chaos theory exists for a reason, and for this collection Griffiths has translated the concept into crumpled and rumpled pieces, reminding us that the scientific method has its limits. He quoted Kurt Vonnegut, speaking of the mystical quality of the field, in his presentation notes: “Science is magic that works.”

And while the starting point may have been intellectual, it certainly didn’t take an advanced degree to appreciate the simplicity of these clothes. The classic trench coats, cinched-waist blazers, and perfectly Italian suits were a feast even for the liberal arts-trained eye.

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