Akris stumbles with light and fantastic fabrics for spring 2025

Often inspired by modern and contemporary artists, Albert Kriemler instead turned to the early Renaissance period for his spring Akris collection, which was inspired by a ballet by John Neumeier that he recently costumed in Hamburg, all the colors coming from the Italian painter Piero della Francesca.

“What came out of it was a delightfully new color palette, and probably one of my most modern ballets,” Kriemler recounted during a preview at the Akris showroom in Paris.

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For the spring collection, he took on the challenge of combining the pale palette of Andrea Mantegna’s frescoes with light and airy constructions for global warming. Indeed, he found a range of new fabrics that were as functional as they were beautiful, like the sample of woven raffia, cool and slippery to the touch, delivered with a paperclip on the show invitation, or the waterproof organza and coated linen . for raincoats, you can wear them in two ways.

Kriemler even discovered “technological tulle” at a sporting goods fabric show in Munich, typically used to make performance outerwear. He confessed that he had largely avoided synthetic fabrics until now, ultimately impressed by the durability and luxurious feel of the ultra-fine blends.

There were myriad ways to wear sheer fabrics and knits without causing a spectacle, a feat especially under the bright lights of the catwalk.

A sporting atmosphere reigned as the women walked under the Gothic vaulted ceiling of the Collège des Bernardins refectory.

Kriemler kept simple shapes – T-shirts, varsity jackets, jackets, trench coats, sheaths and pantsuits – to highlight his superb fabrics, notably the silk georgette he has used for decades, or the multiple layers of techno tulle, which flows in a unique way and creates optical patterns when the light hits it.

There were no tutus here, but there was a ballet grace about them. Moreover, when Kriemler dresses the dancers, his only condition is to use his own fabrics. It’s no surprise that after their performance, many dancers ask if they can take the clothes home.

For more Paris spring 2025 reports, click here.

Launch gallery: Akris Spring 2025 ready-to-wear collection

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