A 'one-of-a-kind' Finger Lakes restaurant to close; Winery with tasting room to be taken over

LODI, NY — Dano’s Heurigerwhich introduced Austrian “wine tavern” cuisine to America through its location in the Finger Lakes, will close early next month.

The spot overlooking the east side of Seneca Lake in Lodi will be taken over by the nearby community as a tasting room Silver wire winery. It is expected to open in February 2025.

Some of Dano’s signature dishes, such as its Austrian spreads, cold salads and charcuterie, will be available when Silver Thread opens the new tasting room at 9564 Route 414 on the lake’s eastern shore.

Dano’s last day of service is December 1. On November 23, Dano will host a final celebratory event that will serve as a fundraiser for the nonprofit World Central Cuisine.

Dano’s started in 1990 as a predominantly traditional Austrian restaurant in downtown Ithaca. It was founded by the late Austrian chef Dano Hutnik and his wife Karen Gilman, who served as pastry chef.

In 1999 and 2000, it offered food at the Standing Stone Winery on Seneca Lake, then moved to its location on Route 414 in Lodi in 2005.

There it began to emphasize the Viennese “heuriger” concept, sometimes described as an Austrian version of a tapas bar. It is cited as the first heuriger (pronounced hoy-rig-er) in the United States.

The menu included Viennese spreads and artisan breads, salads, roasted and smoked meats, vegetables, homemade sausages, seafood, homemade pickles and jams. It combined family-style dining with an a la carte menu with wine pairings.

“It was really the perfect concept for the wine region,” says Michal Turback, a former Ithaca restaurant owner who has also written several books about Finger Lakes food and drink. “Dano was a larger than life personality, and together with the food it suited the region perfectly.”

Hutnick passed away in 2018 and Gilman has continued the operation ever since. Now she plans to retire.

“After 34 years, it is time to pursue my other lifelong passion, painting,” Gilman wrote a recent Facebook post. “…It was an incredible run. The entire staff is grateful for the support you have given us over the years. I look forward to announcing exciting plans for our beautiful property and building in the near future.”

Gilman is leasing Dano’s restaurant space to Silver Thread owners Shannon and Paul Brock, and will continue to live nearby. She will also assist with the transition.

“Karen graciously offered to share some recipes and help us with dinner,” Shannon Brock said today. “We’re going to focus on what can be prepared in advance,” she said, adding that food will likely be offered as an appetizer during tastings “for a true wine bar experience.”

The Dano space will also be used for wine classes and private events, she said.

Gilman said today that she initially tried to find a restaurant operator to take over the space, but she believes it would be a good fit for Silver Thread to move in.

“I think they can keep some of what made Dano what it was,” Gilman said. “I’m excited for them”

Silver Thread, meanwhile, will convert its current tasting room, up the hill from Dano’s on Caywood Road off Route 414, into a private tasting venue. The move to the Dano spot provides a much more visible location for tasting rooms, Brock said.

Silver Thread opened in 1991 and the original operators also once owned the building where Dano’s is located. The Brocks purchased Silver Thread in 2011.

During his time as manager of Dano’s, so was Hutnik a two-time James Beard Foundation semifinalist for the best chef in the Northeast.

“It was truly a unique gem in the Finger Lakes,” said Karl Neubauer, co-owner of the Hollerhorn Distillery in Naples, near Canandaigua Lake. Neubauer’s family is from Austria and they were fans of Dano’s and Austrian cuisine.

“We went there often for family meals and parties,” Neubauer said. “It was really authentic and a uniquely special place.”

Don Cazentre prescribes NYup.com, syracuse.com and The Post-Standard. Reach him out [email protected]or follow him NYup.comon Tweet or Facebook.