Hermès brings unexpected fall hues to the Paris spring collection with a geometric touch

PARIS – Nadège Vanhee-Cybulski ignited the Hermès spring collection with golden beiges and autumnal hues, defying seasonal conventions. Sensual knitwear, fine-as-air leather and a touch of utilitarian chic come together in an elegantly modern vision. Hermès has proven once again that luxury can be both adventurous and effortlessly refined.

Here are some highlights of Saturday’s ready-to-wear collections:

The gentle geometry of Hermes

Nadège Vanhee-Cybulski’s Hermès collection reinvented spring with a palette of warm golden beiges and earthy fall hues, a bold choice that immediately set the collection apart. Soft geometry shaped the clothes – a myriad of squares and architectural shapes that blended seamlessly with Hermès’ signature minimalism. This interaction was enhanced by the stunning wooden backdrop, reinforcing the atmosphere of sophisticated restraint.

Vanhee-Cybulski leaned into refined sensuality with sheer mesh pants that transformed with the click of a button and lightweight leather jackets that seemed almost ethereal. These pieces combine athletic ease and luxury, demonstrating his ability to combine delicacy and bold, structured shapes. Utility details, like buckled belts and boxy, pocket-laden shirts, underscore the collection’s practical grounding, even amid its boldest expressions of sensuality.

Throughout, Vanhee-Cybulski captured the lightness that spring demands: luxurious reinterpretations of Hermès’ iconic silk scarves, transformed into breezy shirtdresses and rompers, embody a carefree spirit ready for escapades in the sun. Warm neutral tones dominated, echoing a sunny feel, while her sportswear-inspired pieces conveyed a casual, summery attitude without compromising elegance.

Shoes, always a flagship of Hermès, have taken this philosophy further. Sleek riding boots provided a solid foundation for the collection’s grounded luxury, while clog sandals brought a playful, modern touch.

The controlled chaos of Westwood

The spirit of Vivienne Westwood lived on in Paris this season, as Andreas Kronthaler brought a masterful combination of rebellion, history and glam rock energy to the catwalk. The spring collection opened with sparkling pants paired with a silky blue bodice, a nod to the late designer’s love of bold, unexpected contrasts – a brilliant debut that practically screamed rock ‘n’ roll chic. Kronthaler clearly hasn’t lost his taste for the dramatic, diving headfirst into the kind of fierce, confrontational style that made Westwood an icon.

A giant silver chain, hanging almost absurdly from the model’s knees, set the tone: a clear statement of raw, unapologetic power, in keeping with the ’80s punk ethos that still runs through this house’s veins. And of course, there were Westwood’s signature suits and Grecian-style draped dresses: classic shapes that carried dynamic energy and timeless rebellion, recalling the archival references that defined Kronthaler’s tenure. These silhouettes carried the same sense of timeless radicalism that could be seen in Kronthaler’s reinterpretations of Westwood’s personal wardrobe last fall, where each garment seemed to transcend fleeting trends.

Contrasting checks, a staple of Westwood’s lexicon, made their mark, giving the collection a raw, urban feel that clearly seemed true to the house’s rebellious spirit.

Fantasy had its moment of glory in the form of a giant tulle headpiece, rising high and embodying a bridal punk vision of the 80s – a dizzying height of contradiction that no one but the house of Westwood could give such an irreverently sophisticated appearance. This playful chaos echoes seasons past, where Kronthaler embraced an eclectic hodgepodge of themes, from historic doublets to modern macrame capes. This time, however, there was a sense of restraint. This was a more controlled affair, which saw Kronthaler tighten up his narrative, perhaps reflecting a move towards emotional homage rather than spectacle alone.

Elie Saab takes us on a sensual journey

Elie Saab unveiled his spring collection at the Palais de Tokyo on Saturday, and let me tell you, any expectations of colonial nostalgia were quickly swept away, as were the harmattan gusts that inspired him. Instead, we were treated to a fascinating journey through the African savannah, fresh, vibrant and completely free of tired clichés. This was no ordinary safari chic: Saab took the concept and injected it with its signature luxury, letting it roar in every way necessary while keeping the camp firmly in control.

From the start, Saab showed that it wasn’t afraid to play with safari staples, but with a twist. Safari suits, reimagined as loose linen pieces and elegant crepe jumpsuits, have swapped their usual khaki for the flamboyant red of fireball lilies, the brooding elephant gray and the ocher dust of West Africa. It was a palette that brought the raw, natural beauty of the continent to life without falling into predictable tropes. These looks were not the romanticized costume of the intrepid explorer; they were naturally chic, perfectly suited to today’s cosmopolitan adventurer.

Then came the raffia – oh, the raffia! Saab worked magic with this plant fiber, weaving it into low-cut skirts and mini dresses with slight bubble hems that looked light and airy, yet utterly luxurious. It also appeared as fern embroidery on floor-skimming tulle dresses, adding delightfully organic texture and depth. It was these delicate, thoughtful touches that took this collection beyond a simple thematic exercise and elevated it to the status of exquisiteness.