How to spend a weekend in Transylvania, Romania?

The name Transylvania is derived from a Latin term meaning ‘beyond the forest’, but it’s the destination’s Gothic connections that most people find hard to look past. More than 125 years after Bram Stoker’s Dracula was first published, this region of central Romania still haunts the imagination as the homeland of the world’s most famous vampire. There are certainly enough impenetrable forests and forbidden fortresses to convince the visitor that the whispers might be true; this is a mysterious land, where legends come to life and predators prowl in the darkness.

But come, and you’ll soon realize that the medieval citadels in the shadow of the Carpathians are more of a fairytale than a horror story. There is a new wave of cafes, craft shops and galleries, while cultural projects are breathing new life into rural settlements. They are home to a mix of Romanians, Roma, Hungarians and Saxons, and some retain customs that are much the same as they have been since the Middle Ages.

There are other changes coming as well. In 2023, an airport opened in the local center of Brașov, making the region more accessible to international travelers. A direct flight from London soon followed three times a week. So, as Count Dracula once said to his guests: come in freely. With its ancient culture and new energy, Transylvania is sure to captivate everyone.

Day 1: Castles & coppersmiths

Morning
In Braşov, a medieval city with red-tiled roofs and Gothic spires, rent a car and get there early to avoid the tour buses to the 14th-century city. Bran Castle20 miles south. Many believe that this fortress, with its extensive turrets and mountain ranges, was the real inspiration for Castle Dracula. But while Vlad Țepeș – the 15th-century Wallachian prince on whom the bloodthirsty census was based – might have visited once, Stoker never set foot in Transylvania. You can’t blame the souvenir sellers outside the castle for selling their credentials, but the displays inside separate fiction from fact. It is fifteen minutes south Fortress Raşnova medieval hilltop citadel with even better views of the forest-covered Carpathians.

Afternoon
Return to Brașov for a lunch of beef cheek with black truffles Sub-Tampa. Then take a look at the red-capped bell tower of the Black Church. It is the largest Gothic church in the country and takes its name from the scorch marks left by a fire that destroyed the city in 1689. Inside are medieval murals and artifacts, including an organ with 4,000 pipes and a collection of Ottoman carpets. Come mid-afternoon and get back on the road. The drive to Sighișoara takes less than two hours, but if you don’t mind taking a detour, take the route via the village of Brateiu, which adds an hour to the journey. It is home to a community of Căldărari coppersmiths: Roma artisans whose handiwork is displayed in roadside stalls.

Evening
Dusk is an atmospheric time to arrive at the UNESCO World Heritage Site of Sighișoara, the citadel believed to be the birthplace of Vlad Țepeș, its cloud-piercing turrets cutting an ominous silhouette against the rapidly blackening sky. Check-in Casa Georgius Kraussa former nobleman’s home that has been converted into a boutique hotel. During the renovation work, 17th-century Saxon frescoes and painted ceilings were discovered, which have since been restored and are now preserved in the nine opulent guest rooms. The restaurant serves dishes from Transylvania, such as pork marinated in țuică (a local plum brandy), as well as wines from various local producers.

Day 2: Cycling tours & bear skins

Morning
Consider skipping the kitsch vampire-themed attractions to sink sink your teeth into some of Sighișoara’s more authentic highlights. Start with a tour of the Clock Tower and Historical Museum of Sighișoara to learn about the Saxon craft guilds that once ruled the city. Then refuel at one of the colorful cafes along Piaţa Cetăţii (‘Citadel Square’). You’ll need a good dose of caffeine for the leg-breaking climb to the 176-step Scholar’s Stairway. It is worth seeing the Church on the Hill, Sighișoara’s three-aisled cathedral. First built in the 13th century, it won an award at the 2024 European Heritage Awards for the restoration of its ancient, faded frescoes and dazzling altarpieces.

Afternoon
It is a 30-minute drive from Sighişoara Bike Check Inn. Rent an e-bike and ride along country roads to Viscri, a Saxon village from the 12th century. This was a thriving community for 800 years, until a mass exodus in 1989 – prompted by the fall of communist leader Nicolae Ceauşescu’s regime – threatened to consign its way of life to history. Foundations such as the Mihai Eminescu Trust are now working to keep Viscri’s heritage alive through various initiatives. It helps that the villagers have British royalty championing their cause: pop into a craft shop run by the King Foundationwhere jams, artisan cheeses and more are stocked.

Evening
Return to Brașov before sunset, when the city’s sleepy squares turn into hubs of live music and locals sipping palincă. Brown bears have been known to enter the city, but these sightings are fortunately rare. If you’re keen to see one, it’s best to head into the surrounding forest accompanied by experienced guides, such as those from the tour operator Rolandia. If you’re visiting between February and November, join them on a customized twilight tour to an observation hut. With more than 6,000 bears in Romania – the largest population in Europe outside Russia – there’s a good chance you’ll soon see the continent’s largest predators, as well as boars, foxes, deer and more.

Three more Saxon villages to visit

1. Biertan
Eight centuries ago, the Saxons were invited to settle in Transylvania by the Hungarian King Géza II, who sought their help in defending his territory against Tatar and Turkish invasions. They were predominantly Lutheran Christians and built their villages around heavily fortified churches – and that in the village of Biertan, the most important religious center of the Transylvanian Saxons for almost three centuries, it is among the best in the region. Protected by three concentric walls, sturdy turrets and imposing battlements, the building is part of a group of fortified churches listed as a UNESCO World Heritage Site; spot him high on his own hilltop, in the middle of the village.

2. Malancrav
Nestled in a bend of the Mălâncrav Valley lies a village that is home to more than 100 Transylvanian Saxons – the largest ethnic German community left in the region. They live together with their Roma and Romanian neighbors in pastel-colored houses, bleached by the sun. Through restoration and cultural preservation projects, the Mihai Eminescu Trust has helped turn the village of Mălâncrav into a living museum, where craftsmen from brickmakers to wickermakers keep their traditions alive and horse-drawn carts bump along dusty roads. Stay at Apafi Manor, a guest house run by the Trust and formerly the family home of the village leaders.

3. Saschiz
The Târnava Mare area of ​​southeastern Transylvania is known for its rolling meadows, flower meadows and rural scenes of pre-industrial agricultural life. All this makes the local village of Saschiz a picturesque place for a picnic. Out of stock Pivniţa Bunicii (‘Grandma’s Cellar’), a Saxon-style shop where the artisanal jams, juices and chutneys are made using locally sourced produce from small-scale organic farms. The village is also known for its traditional cobalt blue ceramics, which have been made here since the 18th century. Be sure to visit the Saschiz pottery studiofor hands-on cycling lessons with local artisans.