Kazakh food: more than a meal, it’s a taste of home

Almaty’s Auyl restaurant, recently named one of the 16 most beautiful restaurants in the world by Prix Versailles, reflects the neo-nomadic spirit of Kazakh cuisine. Inspired by this recognition, Aida Haidar, news editor at The Astana Times, explores what defines Kazakh cuisine and the deep-rooted connection between food and the essence of home for Kazakhs.

ASTANA — When foreigners come to Kazakhstan, they are often advised to try the local food. Since horse meat is at the heart, the idea of ​​eating it may sound exotic to many. After all, you won’t just find it at every restaurant abroad or at the local butcher shop around the corner.

This makes Kazakh cuisine one of the most intriguing yet surprisingly simple dishes for many foodies who travel the world in search of new flavors and vibrant dishes.

As an avid traveler, I have always enjoyed sampling the local cuisine. I strive to approach every culinary experience with an open mind, eager to embrace the unique flavors and ingredients that await me, without any preconceptions.

This is the first piece of advice I would like to give to any foreigner coming to Kazakhstan – especially those who are often amazed (or even frightened) by the enormous amount of meat we consume. In our harsh climate and brutal winters, meat has been a source of livelihood for generations. Nowadays we live in cozy houses with heating, but imagine what it was like for the Kazakhs who lived in their traditional yurts!

I often joke with my foreign friends that this “meat” diet is a key factor in Kazakhstan’s ability to secure such a vast territory – currently the ninth largest in the world. I’m not sure we could have achieved this on a vegetarian diet.

But enough of that: now that you’re here in Kazakhstan, where should you go to try the local food?

One of Kazakhstan’s many advantages is its openness to diverse cultures. Since the days of the Great Silk Road, welcoming foreigners has never been a problem; in fact, it has been a sign of a booming economy and vibrant trade. This cultural exchange has of course also had a significant impact on the food industry.

Looking back twenty years, it is clear that the taste of Kazakh cuisine anticipated the rise of European and other international cuisines. However, in recent years there has been a noticeable shift as Kazakh people have turned inward, rediscovering and celebrating their own culinary heritage. The restaurant scene has blossomed, with new establishments dedicated to Kazakh cuisine opening across the country. Both established and emerging chefs draw inspiration from nature and local ingredients to create inventive dishes that reflect the richness of Kazakh culture.

A must for everyone in Almaty is Ayul, a restaurant located at the foot of the Shymbulak mountains. Here, guests are treated not only to a culinary experience, but also to a visual feast. The interior design immerses you in a neo-nomadic world, where you can sit at a round table on the floor, just as my family often welcomed guests when I was growing up. The warmth and familiarity of that tradition make Ayul feel at home.

Standout dishes at Ayul include baursak (puffy fried bread)balqaimaq (traditional Kazakh clotted cream) and bone marrow served with flatbread. Fat, a key element of Kazakh cuisine, lends a divine richness to the food, giving you a feeling of abundant energy that would have fueled nomads on long horseback rides across the vast steppes.

If you are in Astana, especially during the winter months, don’t miss Qazaq Gourmet, where you can try “beshbarmak”, a traditional dish made with horse meat and dough. This dish is the centerpiece of every important occasion in Kazakh life. My mom and I often make it when we want to treat ourselves or need comfort after a long, stressful day. For us it is a feast and a dessert in one.

The horse meat broth served with beshbarmak is another beloved part of Kazakh cuisine. It is not just a dish, but a rejuvenating experience; something we drink on its own to restore our energy and bring clarity of mind, especially when we are exhausted. It is the ultimate comfort food, which can revive both body and mind.

This place offers a chance to immerse yourself in a Kazakh interior as it is reinvented by modern Kazakhs. While it is uncertain whether traditional Kazakh yurts were ever filled with such vibrant colors, furnishings and cushions, this establishment still offers a unique opportunity to try authentic Kazakh food while getting a glimpse of what life was like in the past .

Astana also features another place to experience Kazakh-inspired cuisine at Selfie in Astana. However, this is a different kind of culinary experience, one that combines the modern nomadic spirit with a taste for luxury and breathtaking views. Located on the 18th floor, the restaurant offers breathtaking views of Astana, a reflection of Kazakhstan’s vastness and ambition.

The focus of the Kazakh-inspired menu is on local ingredients, with each dish highlighting the richness of Kazakhstan’s natural products. A highlight is the horse heart tartare, a truly unique experience. My personal favorite, however, is the ice cream inspired by traditional Kazakh tea.

Kazakh tea is a central element of the country’s identity, with a specific method of brewing and the use of high-fat milk. The color of the tea is also important. It’s more than just a drink; it is a symbol of bringing family and guests together and provides a feeling of warmth and comfort even when it is cold or life is stressful. Whether enjoyed alone or with a group, Kazakhs take their tea seriously. Tasting ice cream with the same flavors gives you a feeling of home from a different perspective. The velvety soft texture allows you to enjoy both luxury and the comfort of home in one bite.

As tempting as this all sounds and although these restaurants offer great experiences, my advice is to make a Kazakh friend while you are here. You will certainly be invited to a Kazakh home to try homemade beshbarmak, served in a more modest environment than in a professional kitchen. It is in the hands of mothers and grandmothers that simple ingredients transform into a dish that not only satisfies hunger, but also nourishes the longing for home and connection that so many of us feel in today’s world.

Even the chef Yevgeny Chekanin, who I interviewed in September he said that the best beshbarmak he had ever tasted was prepared not by a renowned chef, but by an ordinary Kazakh woman at home. For Kazakhs, food is intertwined with the concept of home. For our ancestors, who were constantly on the move, home was a place where they could gather around a hearty meal. And to this day, our food brings that same feeling of home wherever we are.