Reviews | Sushi with fish caught in Hong Kong, a “flight” of barbecue pork from three places: dishes we enjoyed

At his eponymous sushi bar, Leung – taking inspiration from sushi bars in Japan – has copies of Sea fish from Hong Kong market by Keith Lai (a fish enthusiast and expert) to educate diners about the fish on his menu, which is sourced from local supplier Davey Wong.

Nigiri may include filiform fins, lightly set on fire to bring out the scent of its fatty flesh; there is also orange-spotted spring grouper, aged for a few days for a more tender texture.

Mantis shrimp, a sweet shellfish normally cooked in a typhoon shelter and hidden under a blanket of fried garlic and chili, is laid bare here, served only with a light daikon and yuzu sauce.

A copy of Hong Kong Market Sea Fish by Keith Lai at Sushi Zinc. Photo: Charmaine Mok

Leung doesn’t – and can’t – exclusively use Hong Kong seafood, but that’s not a problem. This is a good start, starting a conversation about the possibilities of local seas.

Sushi Zinc, Shop A1, G/F, Pak Ling Manor, 5-11 Miu Tung Street, Shau Kei Wan

After some news on offal, the good news

Luckily, I was able to visit Hung Kee in Wan Chai on Hong Kong Island with a noodle-loving friend shortly before its sudden hiatus in early May.

Its owner, affectionately known as Hung Jai, announced on Instagram last week that he would have to close the restaurant until further notice as he needs time to recover from a hand injury and a surgical operation that followed.

Because closures of beloved local restaurants are just too common these days, the post promises that Hung Kee won’t close for all-too-frequently heard reasons like rising rents or retirement. Hung Jai insists that he will reopen the store no matter what once he is allowed to work again.

Hung Kee is known for its fresh beef offal noodles, carefully prepared (a very laborious cleaning process is involved) and served in a light but umami-rich broth. Her beef brisket curry macaroni is also a satisfying bowl, as is the pan-fried macaroni cheung fun with its crisp exterior and tender, supple heart.

In the meantime, Hung Jai continues to post updates on his recovery journey and photos of him visiting friends in the food and beverage industry. We wish him a speedy recovery as many are missing their noodle fix.

Hung Kee, Store B2, 6 Heard Street, Wan Chai

Fun cheung fried with egg at Hung Kee. Photo: Charmaine Mok

How much do I love Char Siu? Let me count the ways

A Chinese-American food writer I greatly respect was visiting Hong Kong and his request was for real Cantonese cuisine, specifically sticky rice prepared in the traditional way – read, stir-fried from raw grains, which few restaurants propose. patience to do these days.

We ended up at Hong Kong Cuisine 1983 in Happy Valley, which is quickly becoming my go-to whenever someone is craving solidly executed dim sum and traditional Cantonese dishes prepared properly, with no shortcuts.

Chief Silas Li We weren’t disappointed: our guests were wowed by the pristine dumplings and grains of al dente sticky rice sprinkled with canned Chinese sausage.
A flight of char siu made from pork from three different origins at Hong Kong Cuisine 1983. Photo: Charmaine Mok

Another highlight was the char siu “flight,” which introduced us to pork from three different origins – Hong Kong, Japan and Spain.

Kurobuta pork from Kagoshima, Japan (which comes from British Berkshire pork) and Iberian pork are often listed on high-end menus serving char siu, but I preferred the local option, which contained what I considered like a better fat. meat to meat ratio and pork flavor.

However, I may need to go back and retest the hypothesis.

Hong Kong Cuisine 1983, 1/F, Elegance Court, 2-4 Tsoi Tak Street, Happy Valley