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Meet Burgundy’s Ultimate Restorative

Meet Burgundy’s Ultimate Restorative

This story is taken from an episode of The Oeno filesour weekly insider newsletter on the world of good wine. Register here.

As one of us sits in the passenger seat of Youri Lebault’s Mercedes sedan and the other in the back, the eminent Burgundy tour guide asks us if there is anything he could do to improve our day. “It’s all good, but if I had a glass of Corton-Charlemagne in my hand right now, I’d be just a little happier,” one of us said, laughing. “Consider that it’s done,” replies Lebault. We insist it’s a joke, but before we can say more, Lebault is on the phone with a contact in Beaune who nonchalantly turns around and guides us to a wine shop downtown. Someone appears from inside the store, removes the “No Parking” signs and chain out front, and leads us inside the store. A bottle is presented, two long-stemmed crystal glasses are purchased and we are off in no time touring the vineyards of the Côte de Beaune. That, my friends, is the magic of traveling with someone who is connected. And in Burgundy, this magic is more necessary than ever.

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Just a few weeks ago, at a wine tasting in New York, an acquaintance who imports several notable Burgundian brands mentioned that his producers were closing their doors to everyone except actual wine buyers, distributors or importers . When asked for a reason, he explained that due to obscure wine regulations in the United States, many of the wineries he works with have different importers in each of the 35 states, and that each of these Importers expect to visit their customers two or three times a year. year. Add to that global importers such as those from the UK, Germany, Scandinavia, China, Japan and Singapore, and you understand why small wineries are too strapped for time to organize private tastings for individual buyers, no matter their wealth or who they are. can know.

And that, my friends, once again explains the magic of visiting wine country with someone connected. Someone like Lebault, who started the Burgundy Gold Tour in 1999 at the age of 24. A Burgundian at heart, Lebault is the great-grandson of a cooper from Gevrey-Chambertin and the son of a chef from Dijon, which he recalls. was the capital of the Duchy of Burgundy. Since the days of his solo show, Lebault’s empire has grown to include three Mercedes V-Class vans with panoramic sunroofs, a Mercedes GLE hybrid SUV that he says is very useful for getting out among the vineyards, and a newly added Mercedes Motorhome that he uses for picnicking between rows. He is also accompanied by four other guides in high season, all Burgundians having worked in the wine world before joining his team. Helicopter tours of the wineries are also available.

The estates he has access to and his celebrity clients have requested anonymity and discretion, but it is important to note that Lebault’s first book, Discovering the Climats Vignobles de Bourgogne, opens with a preface written by Aubert de Villaine, owner of the Domaine de la Romanée-Conti, and his second, At Climats Veritas, presents a preface written by Albert II, Sovereign Prince of Monaco, former client of Bourgogne Gold Tour and recommended to Lebault by a high-end estate. The majority of Lebault’s clients spend one or two days with him and each visit is a personalized experience showcasing the finest wineries and rarest wines. He can even get his hands on what he describes as “extra secret bottles”, and birth or birthday year vintages are purchased as needed.

Travel comfortably through one of the greatest wine regions in the world.Travel comfortably through one of the greatest wine regions in the world.

Travel comfortably through one of the greatest wine regions in the world.

Whether Lebault drives you personally or you spend your time with Fabien, David, Christine or Nicolas, your day will begin at a remarkable vineyard with a glass of wine in hand and what is called the Burgundy Wine Tour Classroom, an exploration of the history of Burgundy. , grape varieties, geology, winemaking, agronomy and appellations with visual supports including signs and maps. Although you may be eager to get your hands on the stem of a glass filled with a precious liquid in the barrel cellar of, say, Romanée-Conti, Méo Camuzet or Henri Jayer, Lebault and his team will make sure you really understand why you are here. Only then can the fun begin, including exploring the Côte de Nuits and Côte de Beaune, visiting famous Premier Cru and Grand Cru vineyards as well as photo ops at remarkable locations , tastings in wineries, lunches in local restaurants with incredible wines. wine lists and meals in wine estates with the owners, winegrowers or the best sommelier in France. “A lot of special things are possible, as long as customers let us express our creativity,” explains Lebault. Flight report, “I have always created my private wine tours like an artist. I truly believe it is an art. Of course, the other reason you’re here is to take a few bottles home. Lebault can help by emphasizing: “We are always happy to take care of shipping the wine, door to door to the United States, which is a really convenient service. Our guests are always happy to buy a “souvenir”.

Lebault is not just a connected man. His know-how comes from a life immersed in wine. He holds three distinct degrees from the University of Burgundy in winemaking; wine, culture and wine tourism; and viticulture and environmental issues. In addition, he holds the French Wine Scholar certification from the Wine Scholar Guild, the WSET level 3 qualification from the Wine & Spirit Education Trust, certification from the École des Vins de Bourgogne in tasting and sensory analysis of wines, training in coastal geology. de Nuits and Côte de Beaune, and guide certification of the Interprofessional Burgundy Wine Bureau. In addition, before starting his business, he worked in various fields including Tissier, René Bouvier, Christian Gros, Cécile Tremblay and Vincent Barbier, the last of whom is master of ceremonies at the Confrérie des Chevaliers du Dîners Tastevin at the Château du Clos de Vougeot. More recently, when there was no tourism in Burgundy or elsewhere, Lebault returned to the vineyards to work in the field. He says Flight report“In 2020, during Covid, I had the great opportunity to harvest the grapes in the most prestigious estate in Burgundy, known throughout the world, in the center of Vosne-Romanée, for three weeks.”

Guests contact Lebault through his website and he connects with them personally to create their experience. And if he insists on not mentioning names, he adds that he can “contact certain areas where I have the possibility, a few times a year, to open the doors to unforgettable experiences”. Like any repairman, he can get you where you want to go, but discretion is the key word. And whatever you do, try not to embarrass your guide and ruin the situation for everyone. He tells the story of a guest who wanted tastings only at the best estates, who swallowed every drop of wine poured and didn’t spit at all. Before the end of the final tasting of the day, the customer was sleeping with his head on the table. The owner said, “Please never come here with these kinds of rude guests,” and warned Lebault about future visits. Even the repairman can’t fix bad manners.


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