Patriotism and curry meet Japan’s naval traditions

Stepping out of Kure Station, a Pacific-facing naval base in Hiroshima Prefecture, Japan, you might expect to inhale great lungfuls of salty, mineral-rich air. But the smells that assail me come from closer: from the curry kitchens of the port.

Japanese curry is not universally loved by foreigners: an Indian resident I once met likened the dish to a form of industrial solvent. But I’ve long been a fan of Tokyo curry establishments such as Nakamura-ya and the Japanese chains Hinoya Curry and CoCo Ichibanya. The latter is Dodeka! Katsu Kare (giant chop curry) – deep-fried, sliced ​​pork chops floating in a dense roux-based sauce – may not be to everyone’s taste, but it’s a dish I’m partial to returned time and time again to bulk up and recharge my taste buds. .