A two-key ryokan renews the lost charm of the past

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It is from the ground that you will most appreciate the advantages and details of Nishimuraya Honkan’s design, especially the rustic simplicity of sukiyaa form of architecture made famous by Japan’s iconic teahouses. “When you walk in (Room 51, one of the traditional room types), you think it’s just a guesthouse,” says Colin Fukai, marketing director of Nishimuraya Honkan. But sit down and another world opens up. Sitting on tatami mats, you’re at eye level with the beautiful pond and garden of the neighboring suite. This neighboring suite is built on stilts, specifically to share its garden view without betraying the privacy of the guesthouse itself.

Meanwhile, examine the Matsu Suite and you’ll discover a window above the stairs that frames a pine tree – a natural and consciously designed feature to encourage appreciation of the seasons.

“I guess it’s kind of funny that one of the most important ‘features’ of a suite is the shadow a tree casts on the wall at a certain time of day,” Fukai muses. But “it represents the importance of nature and the concept of ‘simplicity but depth’ in Japanese guesthouse architecture.”

Founded in 1854, Nishimuraya Honkan is run by the seventh generation of owners and has been featured on many lists of the world’s most beautiful or luxurious ryokan. So it’s not wrong to say it’s traditional. But in a way, the choice of words depends on your perspective. “Foreign guests would probably call it ‘traditional’ while local guests would probably say ‘retro,’” Fukai muses.

It’s a point that highlights how easy it is to romanticize the culture a ryokan represents without fully understanding its context, or the commitment it takes to evoke this kind of luxury experience. The reasons other ryokan have abandoned certain practices aren’t always purely stylistic. Fukai cites Japan’s shrinking population as one reason why some ryokan have had to downsize their staff and operations, and why dining rooms are sometimes replacing the “retro” practice of tête-à-tête meals in rooms. But at the Nishimuraya Honkan, it’s exactly this kind of intimate interaction between staff and guests that’s still prized above all else.

Each room has its own attendant, a personal concierge (nakai-san or heyakakari-san (in Japanese) to help you get acquainted with the place and the city. And if you find the concierge asking you what you have planned for the evening, this is not a casual conversation. The room attendant is not just serving you your evening meal, but an elaborate two-hour, multi-course meal. kaiseki a dinner that features (depending on the season) the Matsuba crab or Tajima beef that this region is famous for — they also clear the table to transform your dining room into a bedroom.

The design, service and details like the beautiful public garden dotted with lanterns and koi carp contribute to a particularly tranquil way of experiencing the world. hot Springs (hot spring baths) are another example. But here, the ease and comfort of the experience once again masks the trade-off between traditional experience and contemporary demands. Historically, Kinosaki’s ryokan never had their own onsen baths, instead directing visitors to the seven public baths spread across the city. City officials valued foot traffic, and the layout ensured that the precious natural waters were not overexploited.

But as more tourists found Kinosaki easily accessible by train, demand for on-site onsen grew. Fukai compares the expectation for a ryokan to have its own onsen to that of a Las Vegas hotel to have its own casino. Eventually, city officials reached a compromise: Ryokan could have their own hot springs, but they would be limited in size and would never be reserved for a single guest room.

It’s a balance that works for both the ryokan and the city, and gives the ryokan here a flavor that’s perhaps different from that of the big cities. You can visit the three hot springs at Nishimuraya, but you’ll probably also venture out to enjoy the ones in town. To that end, you’ll receive a complimentary pass that grants you access for the duration of your stay. And instead of holed up, however comfortable it may be in your room, you’ll probably find it just as charming to walk along the river lined with willows and cherry blossoms, toward your next bath, your yukata The dress is the one thing that keeps you modest. Call it retro, call it traditional — either way, Fukai says — if you’re looking for the “lost charm” of the past, this is where you’ll find it. ▪

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