These 9 New Watches Are Defining Current Industry Trends

Every spring, the global watch industry has one goal in mind: the annual Watches & Wonders trade show (the New York Fashion Week of watches). For this event, retailers, media, and collectors flock to Geneva to be the first to see new timepieces from the biggest brands and get a glimpse of the latest trends we can expect to see in the launches that will continue to roll out throughout the rest of the year. The show week is jam-packed: a whirlwind of watch after watch that quickly blends together to form a collective timepiece. But when the dust settles, a few models surface and specific colors, textures, shapes, and concepts emerge. As we enter 2024, you may remember our predictions about the trends we anticipated and hoped to see. Now, following a massive influx of new models onto the market, the results are in. And guess what? We have identified some important themes that we are seeing across the industry.

Available sizes: Hermès cut

In 2021, Hermès unveiled a new flagship collection called the H08. With a sporty design incorporating materials like graphene composite and DLC-coated titanium and a larger 39mm size, the model took on a more masculine feel. This year, the brand shifted its focus to its female clientele with a more modestly sized counterpart to the H08: the Hermès Cut. While the Cut is marketed as a women’s watch, the base model is decidedly unisex. It features a 36mm case (arguably the most accessible size a watch can be) and a classic stainless steel construction, available on a bracelet or rubber strap. The bracelet version is incredibly versatile and easily wearable for everyday wear, while other variations get a more feminine touch with two-tone options or diamonds.

Collaborations: Vacheron Constantin x Yiqing Yin Egerie

Vacheron Constantin is no stranger to collaborations. The brand recently teamed up with the Metropolitan Museum to create a collection of timepieces featuring depictions of famous works of art. However, for this latest collaboration, the brand opted for a more traditional route, enlisting the help of haute couture designer Yiqing Yin. Together, the two designers developed a unique concept watch and a 100-piece limited edition moon phase. The very feminine moon phase collection features a perfectly sized 37mm rose gold case, a gemstone-set bezel, and a lilac mother-of-pearl dial decorated with a “pleated” pattern, representing Yin’s signature color and motif. Between noon and three o’clock, the moon phase is also represented by accents of lilac mother-of-pearl and diamonds. While not a daily wear item, this statement piece represents the unique style that results from the fusion of two great artists in their design languages.

Focus on sustainability: Montblanc 1858 Geosphere 0 Oxygen CARBO2 LE 1969

With one of its latest creations, Montblanc has fully demonstrated its efforts in terms of sustainability. With the launch of the Geosphere Limited Edition, the brand is pioneering the development of an entirely new sustainable case material, a nanofiber composite called CARBO2. Here, Montblanc uses a method that captures CO2 from biogas production and mineral waste from recycling plants, resulting in a powder that is combined with carbon fiber and used for the case of the watch. In recent years, the development of new materials in watchmaking has taken on a new dimension and importance, allowing the industry to focus on the more technical aspects of watchmaking while keeping in mind the aesthetics of the final product, which is no small feat. With the 1858 Geosphere 0 Oxygen CARBO2 LE 1969, Montblanc demonstrates its commitment to more sustainable practices by leveraging research into the use of sequestered CO2 to produce carbon fiber composites.

Heritage Revivals: Zenith Defy Revival A3648

When it comes to archival materials, from product sketches to machines and parts, Zenith has one of the strongest heritage departments. This allows the Maison to breathe new life into past models, such as the Defy Revival A3648. This model marks the first time the brand has reissued one of its early dive watches. It retains the Defy’s angular case shape and the iconic black and bright orange color scheme of the original A3648 from 1969. Additionally, the revival is equipped with the same five-link steel bracelet with folding clasp and maintains a water resistance of 600 meters. Of course, the modern iteration also features some upgrades in the form of sapphire crystal, Super-LumiNova, and the in-house Elite 670 automatic movement. Vintage-inspired models remain increasingly popular across the board, but honestly, their execution can be hit or miss – Zenith is a brand that has always managed to strike the right balance between the past and the future.

Independently produced: Nomos Tangente

Independent watchmaking can take many forms, from singular artisans who produce only a few custom watches per year to brands that are more typically not owned by a larger entity. Nomos falls into the latter group, founded in 1990 by Roland Schwertner, who continues to lead the company today. Since its beginnings, Nomos has created playful and accessible watches, and its latest releases perfectly embody this design philosophy. Here, the brand’s flagship model, the Tangente, comes in 31 unique color combinations to suit any style preference. What makes this brand particularly notable among independents is its affordability, with most models priced under $5,000. This gives any enthusiast an opportunity to access independent watchmaking that might otherwise be inaccessible from more bespoke artisans.

Single dial: Grand Seiko SBGC275

Grand Seiko has built a reputation for exceptional dials and now the brand has raised the bar with an all-new manufacturing technique. This method is on full display in its new SBGC275. Here, Grand Seiko has used a patented technique called “Optical Multi-Layer Coating” which uses a physical vapor deposition process in which multiple layers of nano-sized film create an effect that results in a different hue depending on the viewing angle. Depending on the position and how the light reflects, the watch can appear bright red, fiery orange or deep magenta. Watching this watch transform with the natural movements of the body and light is a sight to behold: it is an eye-catching and fascinating chameleon for the wrist.

Anniversary Celebrations: Datograph A. Lange & Sohne

For A. Lange & Sohne, 2024 marks the 25th anniversary of one of its most important models: the Datograph. The Datograph represents the brand’s first chronograph complication, a milestone for any brand. However, the integration of a new element into the model’s layout has made the model even more significant, with the date window positioned prominently at twelve o’clock (hence the model’s name). Over the years, Lange has evolved the collection, most notably with the Datograph Up/Down in 2012. This variant offered the addition of an increased power reserve of 60 hours and a power reserve indicator at six o’clock, giving the dial a highly symmetrical balance. For the 25th anniversary, Lange is offering the next evolution of the Up/Down in 18-karat white gold and a classic blue dial in a series of just 125 pieces. Between its historical significance and timeless design, this limited edition model will certainly become one of the brand’s most coveted pieces for generations to come.

Dress watches: Parmigiani Fleurier Toric

Before understated luxury became a mainstream trend, Parmigiani Fleurier epitomized the philosophy: refined, understated, timeless. Through fashions, the brand has remained true to this approach to design, and with the rise of understated wealth, Parmigiani is ready to shine. This trend has also paved the way for the resurgence of the dress watch, a category that had been overshadowed by the sports watch in recent years. Today, people are ready to elevate their style with one of the most classic design codes, and Parmigiani’s latest Toric model is the perfect place to start. The brand offers a purely time-based iteration and a split-seconds chronograph. Both are distinguished by their dials, which are designed as pared-back as possible, even with the addition of the complication.

Non-round case shapes: Patek Philippe Twenty-Four

If there’s one trend we may have missed, it’s dial shape. Classic round dials seem to have taken over across all brands, and it will be interesting to see if this style continues to dominate among new watches released this year. However, a small handful of brands have introduced options for those looking for an alternative to the traditional round shape, including Patek Philippe. This year, Patek’s first women’s collection, the Twenty-4, is celebrating its 25th anniversary, and its latest incarnation is worthy of celebration. Despite its square geometry, the model is instantly recognizable by its rectangular case shape and integrated bracelet that hugs the wrist perfectly. The latest version features a stunning purple lacquer dial and diamond accents. In typical Patek style, it’s simply stunning.