European-inspired brewery, cidery and tasting room opens in Suffolk

Brewmaster Michael Pawley held a glass under the Lukr tap imported from the Czech Republic. He flipped a lever and a dark liquid flowed out, taking up 10 percent of the glass. Foam took up the rest, for a better mouthfeel and less bitterness. He handed me the beer at a low counter designed to give customers a sense of intimacy.

Pawley’s goal: to create a European bar experience at the new Sojourn Fermentory in the Bridgeport, Suffolk community. He also wants to serve fresh, quality food without being complicated.

The company’s name, he says, comes from words often attributed to Plato: “Life is but a sojourn. Make the most of it.” We only stay for a while.

I was there for a sneak peek at the 9,200-square-foot venue (including the beer garden), which is owned by Pawley, Jinson Chan, and Scott Osborne., who all have a passion for brewing.

Pawley spent two months in Austria learning how to brew European lagers. He also worked at Commonwealth Brewing Co. and Back Bay Brew House Farmhouse, both in Virginia Beach. Chan has an engineering background and is co-owner of High Side, a modern craft beer bar in Fairfax. Osborne, a pastor at Redemption Church, has an appreciation for craft beer and the process of making it. He and Pawley became friends and shared a dream of opening a brewery that would make world-class beers.

The brewery, cidery and tasting room offer European-style lagers, American ales, modern IPAs, fruity sours and barrel-aged stouts. Two of the four ciders were available during my visit.

I tried Paradise, a cider made with Pink Lady apples. It had a hint of sweetness and a subtle dryness to it. I was ready for the fall season, and this put me in the mood for the fall season.

Sojourn also has a full kitchen led by chef Mario Owens, whom Pawley calls “the flavor guy.” The menu features Roman-style pizzas made with house-made dough that’s fermented for 72 hours.

While waiting to taste the cheese, pepperoni and meat lovers’ pizzas, I sat at one of the two picnic tables in the family area.. There was a children’s stage in the corner, near a Lego station. I imagined the spectacle unfolding as people enjoyed their food. I smiled.

The pizzas arrived hot and looked delicious. I couldn’t choose a favorite. The magic was in the dough. Airy. Fresh. Beautiful.

The place also serves small plates such as tasty truffle fries and karaage (Japanese fried chicken bites) with sweet chili sauce.

At the bar, I admired the recessed triangle in the wall where the 16 taps are located. What a sleek design. I sipped on the Midnight (a dark ale) and the Czech Pils (a light lager). Both were frothy, creamy, and refreshing on a hot Thursday afternoon.

I was looking forward to coming back with friends and staying a while.

Rekaya Gibson, 757-295-8809, [email protected]; on X, @gibsonrekaya

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If you go

Or: 1400 Bridgeport Way, Suffolk

Hours: Monday from 12 p.m. to 9 p.m., closed Tuesday, Wednesday and Thursday from 12 p.m. to 9 p.m., Friday and Saturday from 12 p.m. to 10 p.m., Sunday from 12 p.m. to 8 p.m.

Prices: $4 to $8, beer and cider; $12 to $18, pizza

Details: 757-922-9909; séjourfermentory.com