Setchu spring 2025 ready-to-wear: do you want to see something?

A guided tour with Satoshi Kuwata can be reminiscent of a magician’s act: before even getting to his Spring 2025 clothes, the Japanese designer took a piece of paper from his pocket and partially tore it before his eyes to display the starting point of his creative process.

The careful cutting, the strips of paper folded to reveal their reverse side and the overall concept of metamorphosis and breaking down a piece into parts inspired this beautiful collection, which revealed new, lighter nuances in Kuwata’s tropes.

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The designer’s penchant for constructing clothes was on full display in tank dresses and workwear-inspired shirts with removable, skin-revealing hems and sleeves – funny how he defined these innocent clothes “sexier” than its previous collections – and allowed a change in length. and proportions.

In the same multifunctional vein, the winner of the 2023 LVMH Prize continued to extensively use zippers, snaps and buttons to transform fleeces, cotton shirts and ribbed knits and open his silhouettes to new stylistic solutions.

A standout baby blue suit with a relaxed fit but whose construction still gave a nod to origami folding techniques as well as a series of dress suits in seersucker fabric added to the lighter approach and summer feel that ran throughout range. Denim was also a strong point for producing the same effect through textile experimentation, as evidenced by jumpsuits made from a mix of paper and denim and accentuated with sharp folding pleats.

While in the past he had included delicate touches of floral patterns, this time Kuwata worked with artist Louis Barthélemy on Manga-inspired illustrations rendered in bright colors and black and white on asymmetrical shirts and dresses. Depicting a group of samurai in front of the Sphinx of Giza, the bold print was an unexpected and flashy move for the Japanese talent. But its best asset remains its ability to transform immediate wardrobe archetypes into sophisticated clothes with unpredictable accents.

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Launch gallery: Setchu spring 2025 ready-to-wear collection

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