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How Willamette Valley Vineyards Redefined Alsatian-Style Wines

How Willamette Valley Vineyards Redefined Alsatian-Style Wines

Inspired by the cool climate and terroir similarities between the Willamette Valley and the Alsace region of France, Willamette Valley wineries have recently begun producing Alsatian-style wines. These wines, made from grape varieties such as Riesling, Gewürztraminer and Auxerrois, feature a crisp flavor profile and acidity. Below is a brief history of Willamette Valley Alsatian white grape varieties and tasting notes on Willamette Vineyards’ Alsatian-inspired white wines.

The modern wine industry in Oregon’s Willamette Valley began in the 1960s and ’70s, driven largely by pioneers like David Lett, Dick Erath, and David Adelsheim. Initially, these early winemakers focused on Pinot Noir, a grape well-suited to the region’s cool climate and its similarity to French Burgundy.

In addition to the emphasis on Pinot Noir, Oregon’s pioneering winemakers also recognized the potential of growing cool-climate white grape varieties similar to those found in Alsace. The first Alsatian grape varieties to be planted in the Willamette Valley included Riesling, Gewürztraminer, Pinot Blanc, Pinot Gris, and Müller-Thurgau. Auxerrois Blanc followed several decades later.

Riesling is one of the first Alsatian grape varieties introduced. Known for its versatility and ability to express terroir, Riesling has flourished in the valley’s cool climate and volcanic soils, producing wines with vibrant acidity and complex aromas.

Gewürztraminer, another Alsatian grape variety, was planted for its aromatic qualities and its ability to produce dry and sweet wines. Its cultivation, however, remained relatively modest compared to Riesling.

Müller-Thurgau, a cross between Riesling and Madeleine Royale, was also introduced but did not achieve the same popularity as Riesling and Gewürztraminer due to its less complex flavor profile.

Pinot Gris was one of the first white grape varieties planted in the Willamette Valley, with significant plantings beginning in the 1960s and 1970s. The grape quickly gained popularity due to its adaptability and the quality of the wine it produces. Moderate temperatures, abundant rainfall, and varied soil types create ideal growing conditions for this grape.

Pinot Blanc was introduced to Oregon’s Willamette Valley in the 1980s and 1990s as part of a larger movement to diversify the region’s wine offerings beyond the well-established Pinot Noir. The Willamette Valley’s cool climate is well-suited to Pinot Blanc. The region’s diverse soils, including volcanic, sedimentary, and marine soils, provide excellent terroir for the grape.

Auxerrois Blanc, a grape closely related to Chardonnay, is another cool-climate white grape introduced to Oregon in the 1980s and 1990s. The grape’s ability to produce aromatic, fruity wines with crisp acidity and a clean finish made it attractive to Oregon winemakers. Today, Auxerrois is still a relatively minor but respected grape in Oregon.

Early on, Willamette Valley winemakers experimented with different winemaking styles for these grapes. In the tradition of low-cost German table wines, the grapes were often vinified to produce off-dry wines. The success of the valley’s Pinot Noir wines and the inability to command a premium price for its white wines led to many Alsatian grape varieties being replaced or grafted onto Pinot Noir or Chardonnay. Gradually, Willamette Valley winemakers began to find success vinifying these grapes in a drier “Alsatian” style, leading to a resurgence of interest in these grapes.

Although Riesling, Auxerrois, and Gewürztraminer from Alsace and the Willamette Valley share the same grape names, the wines produced in these regions exhibit distinct styles due to differences in climate, soil, and winemaking traditions.

Alsatian wines are often more complex, rich, and expressive of terroir, emphasizing minerality and aging potential. In contrast, Willamette Valley wines tend to be more fruity, fresh, and approachable, reflecting the region’s cooler climate and modern winemaking techniques.

Many Oregon winemakers follow traditional Alsatian winemaking techniques such as gentle pressing, cold fermentation and prolonged lees contact to preserve the wines’ aromatic intensity and natural acidity; however, the wines they produce, while inspired by Alsace, are very different.

Alsatian Rieslings have a pronounced minerality, often described as flinty or steely, with high acidity. They exhibit aromas of green apple, citrus, white flowers and, as they age, sometimes solvent notes on the palate. They tend to be dry, with a crisp, clean mouthfeel. The high acidity provides a refreshing finish and the wines often have long aging potential. Additionally, Alsatian Rieslings are generally not aged in oak barrels to preserve their natural characteristics.

Willamette Valley Rieslings also exhibit crisp acidity and pronounced minerality, but often have more pronounced fruit aromas of peach, apricot, and citrus. Floral notes are also common. Stylistically, they range from dry to off-dry on the palate, with a rounder mouthfeel than Alsatian Rieslings. The fruitiness is more pronounced, balanced by refreshing acidity.

Alsatian Gewürztraminer is highly aromatic, with intense notes of lychee, rose petals, and exotic spices like ginger and cinnamon. It often has a slightly perfumed quality. It is typically rich and full-bodied on the palate, with a slight sweetness balanced by moderate acidity. The mouthfeel can be lush and somewhat oily, showcasing the flavors of exotic fruits and spices. Known for its bold and expressive nature, Alsatian Gewürztraminer can be dry or off-dry, often with a slight residual sweetness that balances the intense aromas.

Willamette Valley Gewürztraminer also has characteristic notes of lychee, rose and spice, but often with a fresher and fruitier profile. Citrus and tropical fruit notes are more pronounced. On the palate, it is generally lighter and more acidic than Alsatian versions and ranges from dry to off-dry. Stylistically, they are more restrained and balanced, emphasizing fresh fruit and floral aspects. The wines are less rich and fat than Alsatian Gewürztraminer and are best drunk quite young.

Auxerrois d’Alsace typically has floral aromas of honeysuckle, elderflower, apple, pear, and fruity notes of white peach. The palate is often marked by moderate acidity, a rich, round texture with flavors of ripe orchard fruits, subtle honey, and a characteristic minerality. There are also hints of spice and a slightly nutty finish. Auxerrois d’Alsace is typically dry or off-dry, with a fuller body focused on expressing the complexity of the terroir.

Oregon Auxerrois tends to have bright, aromatic notes of white peach, green apple, and citrus zest, often with a floral touch of honeysuckle or jasmine. On the palate, these wines are lighter and have higher acidity than Alsace, with fruity flavors of apple, pear, and citrus with a crisp, clean finish. Depending on the vintage, there may also be subtle notes of tropical fruits, such as melon or lychee.

Below are tasting notes on the Alsatian-style wines from Willamette Valley Vineyard.

Willamette Valley Vineyards Dry Riesling, 2022, 12.4% ABV, 750 ml

The nose offers aromas of green apple, pear and citrus blossoms, complemented by notes of jasmine and wet stone. The palate is crisp and refreshing, with flavors of green apple, lime and white peach. The lively acidity is balanced by a touch of residual sugar, giving the wine a slightly off-dry character. The finish is long, with lingering citrus notes and a subtle minerality.

Willamette Valley Vineyards, Dry Gewürztraminer, 2022, 14.4% ABV, 750 ml

The nose is intensely aromatic, with notes of lychee, rose petals and citrus zest, accompanied by hints of ginger and nutmeg. The palate is exotic and savory, with rich flavors of lychee, tropical fruits and citrus. The slight sweetness is balanced by a tangy acidity, giving the wine a balanced and refreshing profile. The finish is long and aromatic, with lingering floral and spicy notes.

Willamette Valley Vineyards Auxerrois 2022, 13.3% alcohol, 750 ml

The nose is very aromatic, with fruity notes of white peach, green apple and subtle pear. Nuances of citrus zest, particularly lemon and lime, and delicate floral notes of honeysuckle and jasmine add to the aroma. There is also a slight but persistent minerality of wet stone.

On the palate, it is medium-bodied with a soft, silky texture that balances the crisp acidity. The wine exhibits flavors of ripe orchard fruits, including peach and apple, intertwined with a touch of lemon and lime zest, honeydew melon and a hint of white flowers. A subtle minerality supports the wine’s complexity.

The finish is long and refreshing, with lingering citrus notes and a sweet, lingering minerality.

Willamette Valley Vineyards has successfully embraced Alsatian-style winemaking, taking advantage of the cool climate and terroir of the Willamette Valley to produce high-quality, aromatic wines. While inspired by Alsace, their Riesling, Gewürztraminer, and Auxerrois are lighter and much fruitier, making them very approachable. These wines are characterized by their vibrant aromas, balanced acidity, and complex flavors, making them perfect summer wines and a great representation of Oregon’s Alsatian-style wines.