MFW’s Common Thread Wasn’t Spring Essentials – Essence

The common thread running through Milan Fashion Week was probably the whimsy of the clothes that were on the runways in many of the presentations. Despite the many differences between the clothes, designers didn’t skimp on their design prowess. The level of experimentation was impressive, but the usual codes were just as prevalent. Milan gave way to refreshing designs that didn’t feel stuffy, but were unpretentious and a little flashy. The latter is a testament to the ability of designers like Maximillian Davis’ Ferragamo to shine rather than get swallowed up by the overcrowded schedule of Milan Fashion Week.

The ballerina style was given a fresh update and new life at Ferragamo’s Spring/Summer 2025 presentation. Taking inspiration from American dancer and choreographer Katharine Dunham, Davis presented an elegant wardrobe fit for ballerinas off-duty. This collection was perhaps my favorite of MFW—as a former dancer who studied ballet for nearly a decade, it spoke to me. The textured outerwear, in addition to the succinct pairing of dark brown and dusty pink, was aesthetically pleasing, with a deep brown and cherry red even used to great effect. Some of the collection’s fitted pieces, like the jumpsuits, were interesting—as were the dresses that floated eloquently on the models’ shapes, exploring refined territory.

Attico’s collection seems to be the polar opposite of Ferragamo’s. Giorgia Tordini and Gilda Ambrosio’s clothes seem to be the armor that elegant women should seek for a new chapter in their lives. If one is entering a new era after a drastic change in their life, such as a new role or perhaps a breakup, the collection is worthy enough to be noticed. Pale pink, canary yellow and rich gray were the tones chosen. With this color palette, a sophisticated collection was able to take shape. Sheer skirts and dresses as well as caged heels were some of the most fascinating and sensual pieces of the season’s new arrivals.

Donatella Versace ushered in a spring that would be marked by offbeat, statement pieces. Ready-to-wear pieces were showcased on models: sleek jackets, a low-rise sky blue suit, printed cardigans and sheer red tights. While this collection may not exactly feel like spring, it made a statement. Sequins even made an appearance in Donatella’s take on next spring, as did lilac platform sandals. A camel-brown leather jacket paired with cutoff shorts and a dark blue button-down shirt was an outfit for someone who marches to the beat of her own drum.

Bottega Veneta’s relaxed, pared-down suiting was significant. Much of this collection played between workwear staples like pants, silk dresses, and rugged outerwear—these new additions were juxtaposed with colorful sweater sets and frilly textures found on skirts, coats, and more. The hairstyles worn with some of the looks seemed to pay homage to the creatures one would have imagined as a child. An asymmetrical wrap skirt paired with pants felt like a statement of sorts. The same goes for the oversized nature of nearly every piece that made its way down the runway. Is it cool to wear wide-leg pants and other choices in everyday life? According to Matthieu Blazy, yes.