Chef Dana Rodriguez opens Carne, an internationally inspired steakhouse

Chef Dana Rodriguez at Carne restaurant in Denver on Thursday, June 27, 2024. (Photo by AAron Ontiveroz/The Denver Post)

When Dana Rodriguez invited Gov. Jared Polis to the opening of her new restaurant, he texted her back: “Loca, now I know why they call you ‘Loca.’ Don’t you have enough Casa Bonita to want to open another restaurant?”

Rodriguez, the culinary director of the acclaimed Casa Bonita, will open Carne, a steakhouse at 2601 Larimer St. in Denver’s River North Art District, on July 3. Last week, she wore her Chef Loca moniker with beaming pride at a preview of the restaurant as she strolled hand-in-hand with her new beau and business partner, Scott Shoemaker, who oversaw Casa Bonita’s renovations and helped her design the sleek, 1970s-style steakhouse.

Carne has drawn inspiration from her culinary travels and experiences in kitchens specializing in cuisines around the world over the past 20 years. Guests can take a trip to France with duck confit or stop in Italy with veal osso bucco. The eclectic menu features Argentinian steak, Mexican ribs with a charcoal rub, Brazillia picanha steak and Colorado lamb.

“It’s one of the only steakhouses in RiNo, let alone one run by women, so I wanted it to be a fun place, not a traditional, stuffy setting,” Rodriguez says. “You can come in after work in a T-shirt and shorts and have a full meal for under $200.”

The opening comes just two months after Rodriguez closed Cantina Loca, her first solo venture, due to low traffic. “The stress of maintaining a restaurant is significant, but you also have to be smart enough to make the decision when you know it’s not viable,” she said. She is also no longer with Doña Loca, the mezcal brand she co-founded in 2021 that was featured at Cantina Loca. Rodriguez explained that she didn’t have enough time to travel for tastings and wanted to focus on her other restaurants, Work & Class and Super Mega Bien.

The multiple James Beard Award-nominated chef hasn’t let the shutdown get her down. “They put you down, but you’re not dead,” she said. “You can have an opportunity to come back and do new things and continue to provide for your employees.”

That’s why she says that when she spotted an empty space on a street corner just down the block from Work & Class where Il Posto had previously operated for 17 years, “I knew everything was meant to happen for a reason.”

Carne’s menu is playful with a section for “The Normies,” which includes a 6-ounce traditional filet ($33) or a 10-ounce New York strip ($45). Then there’s “The Ballers,” for those looking for a $50 wagyu sirloin or a $175 tomahawk steak. Sides, like creamy green chile cheesy potatoes au gratin or a whole head of spicy roasted cauliflower, are all $11.

The cocktail program, created by Run For The Roses founder Steve Waters, features classic cocktails from around the world, like a Peruvian pisco sour or a twist on the French sidecar. There’s also a tableside martini cart so an entire table can enjoy gin or vodka shaken to order, and a wine wall that guests are invited to browse to choose their selection for the evening.

“There are a lot of places that are closing and opening, and I wanted to offer something simple and affordable so people would come here three or four times a week,” Rodriguez said. “You don’t have to order the tomahawk, you can’t order the chicken one day and the ribs the next, but it’s tasty enough that you’ll keep coming back.”

The decor resembles an upscale version of Eric Foreman’s basement in “That 70’s Show” with old-school albums, TVs, beaded curtains, murals and funky green and orange tones throughout.