Consider smoking something tasty this Fourth of July – Orange County Register

Steven Raichlen’s cookbook “Project Smoke” offers recipes for smoking all sorts of dishes for your table. (Michael Tercha/Chicago Tribune)

Get out the flags! Get your band together! It’s Independence Day and there are plenty of places to party in our area.

Warm enough for you? La Brea’s Country Fair at City Hall Park includes a Plunge swim, pancake breakfast, live entertainment, a children’s parade, a dog parade, a classic car show, food, games, exhibits and handmade gifts.

In Fullerton, head to the Downtown Plaza for a car show, rides, games, food booths, live music and spectacular fireworks. La Habra festivities at La Bonita Park include fireworks, live music, children’s activity booths and food and retail vendors.

At Veterans Park, the annual Yorba Linda Fourth of July Spectacular will feature a live band, family activities, a children’s entertainment zone and food trucks.

Entertaining at home? Why not? July 4th is probably the most barbecued day of the year.

You’ve already grilled chicken on a beer can. You’ve grilled your Thanksgiving turkey, not to mention burgers, veggies, fish, and even tofu. But even if you haven’t done any of that, it’s time to get smoking, folks!

“Wood smoke contains hundreds of flavor-enhancing compounds,” notes Steven Raichlen in “Project Smoke” (Workman, $22.95). “I call wood smoke the umami of barbecue. Like umami in Asian dishes, it enhances the intrinsic flavor of meats and seafood and gives them more character, but when done well, it doesn’t really mask their taste.”

When it comes to grilling, no one beats Raichlen, author of a library of award-winning cookbooks, including “The Barbecue! Bible,” “How to Grill” and “Planet Barbecue!” He is also the host of several series on PBS.

With “Project Smoke,” even a novice can learn how to smoke meats, poultry, seafood, vegetables and, believe it or not, desserts.

“The type of wood is less important than how you burn it,” Raichlen advised. “The flavor of the smoke varies from wood to wood, but it varies subtly and is certainly not literal. In other words, cherry wood smoke doesn’t really taste like cherries, and maple doesn’t taste like maple syrup.”

“The most important thing is to gradually adjust the wood and smoke. Soak wood chips in water, then drain them, to slow the burn rate. I add fresh chips every 30 to 45 minutes and wood chunks once an hour,” he says. “If you do it right, you get a pale blue smoke that embraces and flavors the food without overpowering it.”

One pitfall to avoid is what he calls “the guy syndrome,” which is “thinking that if a little smoke is good, more is always better. Too much smoke makes food taste bitter.”

Judy Bart Kancigor, of Fullerton, is the author of “Cooking Jews” and “The Perfect Passover Cookbook.” Her website is cookingjewish.com.

Smoked beef fillet

Excerpt from Steven Raichlen’s “Project Smoke”; serves 8

Ingredients:

• 1 whole beef tenderloin, trimmed (about 4 pounds)
• Coarse salt (sea or kosher)
• Crushed or freshly ground black pepper
• 1 to 2 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil, plus extra for drizzling
• Vegetable oil, for oiling the grill

Method:

1. Set up the smoker according to the manufacturer’s instructions and preheat it to 225 to 250 degrees. Add wood as directed by the manufacturer.

2. Place the tenderloin on a rimmed baking sheet and season generously on all sides with salt and pepper. Drizzle all sides with olive oil and rub it over the meat.

3. Place the tenderloin in the smoker and insert the probe of a remote thermometer (if using one) through the thick end of the tenderloin into the center. (You can also check for doneness near the end of cooking with an instant-read thermometer.) Smoke the tenderloin until the internal temperature reaches about 110 degrees, about 45 to 60 minutes. Transfer to a platter and let rest for 10 minutes.

4. Meanwhile, prepare the grill for direct cooking; preheat it to high heat. Brush and oil the grill grate. If using a charcoal grill, mound the coals after smoking, adding fresh coals if necessary, to start a hot fire.

5. Transfer the tenderloin to the grill with the thermometer probe still attached. Grill directly, turning like a log, until all sides are crispy, dark and sizzling and the internal temperature in the thickest part reaches 120 to 125 degrees for rare, or 130 to 135 degrees for medium, 6 to 10 minutes. Brush with additional olive oil as it cooks and, if desired, give it a quarter turn on each side halfway through to form a grid of grill marks.

6. Place the tenderloin on a cutting board and remove the strings. Cut the meat crosswise into quarter- to half-inch slices.