The streets and waterfronts of Astoria offer one of the coolest pub crawls in Oregon

The secret to a good pub crawl in Astoria is to start before sundown. Since the mid-19th century, fishermen and cannery workers carousing in the streets knew it was wise to go to bed before sundown; Astoria’s bustling port meant it was entirely possible to get ripped off by Shanghai. The late hours of the day in “a drinking town with a fishing problem” may be a relic of those dangerous nights or the result of the fact that this town of about 10,000 is still anchored in maritime trade: fishing is an early-bird activity.

You will enjoy the daylight if you do the Inferno Lounge Your first stop (bonus points if you know where it got its name*). Grab a window seat and take in the stunning views of Astoria Harbor. Inferno is an enticing mix of new and old. Bartenders offer an impressive array of infused spirits to give your cocktail an extra kick—the cilantro lime martini is perfect. But if you prefer the classics, order Bloody Marys at happy hour and wash them down with a mountain of nachos.

After the Inferno, take a break from the rough stuff. Like almost every Columbia town with two hops to contend with, Astoria is experiencing a local beer boom. Head east for the city’s oldest craft brewery, Astoria Brewery (opened in 1997). The styles offered are classic and timeless. The crisp, refreshing Pilsner is a best-seller. Pair it with some tasty pub food while you plan your next trip.

It’s a slightly longer walk, west, to one of the newcomers to the brewery district: Obelisk Beer Co.. Launched in late 2022 in a renovated warehouse, it quickly became a local favorite for its complex slow brews with unusual names: Pterodactyls, Mooncrusher, and Permatrip were recent additions to the menu. The delicious Kolschish Sun Shrine beers (there are two versions) kept us coming back. The menu is limited, but you can bring your own.

If you prefer wine, head to Raw, Tucked away on a side street between the two main drags, Commercial Street and Marine Drive, this intimate boutique wine bar is full of unexpected delights. Don’t hesitate to ask owner Lisa Parks for advice. With a wealth of knowledge and infectious enthusiasm (a magical combination), she’s a human passport to the world of wine. There are generous platters to nibble on as you sip a radiant Sancerre or explore the exceptional treasure trove of vermouths. By the time you leave, you’ll know everyone’s name one way or another.

Dead Man’s Island is a pirate’s paradise. The burnt menus feature two dozen scorching concoctions, served in glasses shaped like mutant skulls, smoking volcanoes, and more. The Dead Man’s Grog gave us confidence, and the Isle of the Dodo had us trembling. Few buccaneers could lower more than one of these beauties into the hatch and still walk the plank in a straight line. So sip slowly and give yourself time to soak up the atmosphere. (Check out the glowing pufferfish.) The food options—fried rice, crispy tofu salad, spring rolls—continue the modern tiki bar vibe.

Decisions, decisions. Around the corner from Dead Man’s, feast your eyes on the truly epic spirit wall at Blaylock Whiskey Bar. The selection here is impressive: a rainbow profusion of Scotch, Irish whiskey, rye, and at least a hundred types of bourbon. If you’re not in the mood for smoky spirits, check out the enticing menu of creative cocktails made with clear spirits. Smooth leather stools, sleek wooden tables, and cozy nooks might inspire you to write the next great Northwest novel. Keep your strength up with a salmon, pâté, or cheese board, or snack on olives and nuts.

If you’re looking for a more expansive dining menu with a Mediterranean flair, head west to Fu-Bara new branch of Astoria’s beloved Italian classic Fulio’s. Long baffled by the lack of space for patrons seeking drinks and appetizers rather than a full dinner, owners Jamie Birdsong and Allan LaPlante took over and remodeled the neighboring art gallery to create Fu-Bar. The bar’s menu includes classics like eggplant parmesan and stick-to-your-ribs sandwiches like Italian beef and a Caprese. A perfect spot to sip an Aperol spritz.

After all that, if you’re ready for one more drink and a no-nonsense good time, don’t miss the Temple of Labor Restaurant (in the front) & Bar (in the background). Housed in a 1924 building that was originally a meeting space for local unions, the Labor Temple Bar still exudes a working-class vibe. But tonight’s newcomer could be tomorrow’s regular. You wouldn’t be the only person who came to Astoria for a weekend and stayed for life. Nights feature touring acts and local bands ranging from punk to metal, with raucous karaoke on Thursdays and Fridays. If you wake up late/early enough for breakfast, treat yourself to the restaurant’s classic fare. You won’t regret it.

*Hell is the name of the ship in THE The Goonies.

Inferno Lounge

77 11th Street, 503-741-3400, infernoloungeatoria.com.

11am to 10pm Monday, Thursday and Sunday; 2pm to 10pm Tuesday and Wednesday; 11am to midnight Friday and Saturday.

Astoria Brewery

144 11th Street, 503-325-6975, astoriabrewingcompany.com.

From 11am to 8pm every day.

Obelisk Beer Co.

598 Bond Street, 503-741-3448, obeliskbeer.com.

3 p.m. to 9 p.m. Monday to Thursday, noon to 9 p.m. Friday to Sunday.

Brut Wine Bar

240 10th Street, 503-468-0829, brutwineastoria.com.

From 3 p.m. to 9 p.m. Tuesday to Friday and from 1 p.m. to 9 p.m. Saturday.

Dead Man’s Island

1239 Duane Street, 503-673-8734, deadmansisle.com.

From 4 p.m. to 10 p.m. on Thursday and Sunday, from 4 p.m. to 11 p.m. on Friday and Saturday.

Blaylock Whiskey Bar

433 13th Street, 503-741-3448, blaylockswhiskeybar.com.

5pm to 10pm Monday and Thursday; 4pm to 10pm Wednesday, Thursday and Sunday; 4pm to 11pm Friday and Saturday.

Fu-Bar

1149 Commercial Street, 503-325-9001, fulios.com.

From 4 p.m. to 8 p.m. Monday and Sunday, from 4 p.m. to 9 p.m. Tuesday to Saturday.

Temple of Labor Restaurant and Bar

934 Duane Street, 503-325-0801, labortemplebar.com.

From 7:30 a.m. to 3 p.m. Monday to Wednesday and Sunday, from 7:30 a.m. to 11 p.m. Thursday to Saturday.

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This article is part of Oregon Summer magazine, Willamette Week’s annual guide to the summer months, this year focusing on the Columbia River. It’s free and can be found throughout Portland starting Monday, July 1, 2024. You can pick up a copy at any of the locations listed on this map before they’re all picked up! Read the rest of Oregon Summer magazine online here.