Meet the sustainable winemaker shaping the future of wine in Australia

Glenn Goodall, renowned winemaker at Xanadu Wines in Margaret River, Australia, is celebrating a quarter-century of dedication to his craft this year. And Goodall’s journey to becoming a leading figure in Australian wine has not been linear.

Born in New Zealand, a chance job planting vines while on holiday sparked a lifelong passion. From there, he honed his skills under the supervision of a mentor, underwent formal training and gained experience working with vintages around the world.

In 1999, Goodall found his place at Xanadu, where he eventually became head winemaker in 2006. His tenure was defined by his unwavering focus on quality, leadership and sustainability.

Under his leadership, Xanadu has achieved Sustainable Winegrowing Australia certification, demonstrating its commitment to environmentally responsible practices. Goodall’s influence extends beyond the winery walls; he is deeply involved in the Margaret River community and enjoys a balanced lifestyle that includes outdoor activities such as surfing, fishing and mountain biking as well as a love of fresh, local cuisine.

Goodall recently shared more with Forbes on the growth of the Australian wine industry over his career, sustainable winemaking and the wine he pairs with his own freshly caught fish.

Congratulations on 25 years at Xanadu! Could you tell us about the most significant changes or milestones you have seen in the Australian wine industry during your tenure?

One of the most significant changes I have seen in my career here is the evolution and renaissance of Chardonnay in Australia. When I started at Xanadu in 1999, the typical Australian Chardonnay fit the classic description of “sunshine in a bottle”. Over the last 25 years, I have been delighted to see Australian Chardonnay evolve to include a wonderful diversity of styles that reflect place and vineyard, rather than heavy-handed winemaking.

During my time here, I’ve also seen global warming across Australia. Margaret River’s maritime climate means we’re not experiencing warming as quickly as other regions, but it’s certainly getting drier. Last year in particular was extremely dry, and it really makes us think about how we need to adapt and evolve as our environment changes.

Your journey into viticulture began with a happy accident in New South Wales. How did this first experience shape your career path and your passion for wine?

My winemaking journey began at Cassegrain Wines in New South Wales, where I worked in the vineyard planting vines before being invited to come work in the cellar. Once I arrived in the cellar, the smell of the place and the camaraderie around the vintage sparked my passion for winemaking. I didn’t grow up in a wine-drinking family, but the energy of being part of a team was something I identified with. It was special to see something through from start to finish to the point where someone could enjoy what you helped create.

You have had the opportunity to work in different wine regions around the world. Can you tell us how these experiences have influenced your winemaking style and philosophy?

Working in different regions of the world has given me a broader perspective on winemaking styles and philosophies, but I wouldn’t say I’ve modeled my style on any one element in particular. In fact, my style has been primarily influenced by the team I work with. It’s not a one-man show, winemaking is definitely a team sport.

That said, the work experience in South Africa was one of the most impactful. The owner and winemaker gave me so much responsibility and freedom that I was able to dive in head first. I knew I loved making wine, but having that level of responsibility made me realise that it was something I could pursue as a career. It was a major turning point and what led me to the decision to become a winemaker.

Sustainability is a priority at Xanadu. Could you tell us more about the specific initiatives you have implemented and how they impact the winery’s operations and wine quality?

Growing and producing wine sustainably requires a holistic approach. One of our biggest sustainability achievements at Xanadu was participating in the Sustainable Winegrowing Australia pilot program, which saw us achieve certification in 2012. SWA is Australia’s national program for winegrowers and winemakers to demonstrate and improve their sustainable practices in the vineyard and winery. Xanadu was the first winery in Western Australia to use the SWA Trustmark, which was a great way to demonstrate our (and our winemakers’) commitment to sustainability.

As for the specific initiatives we have implemented, they are quite extensive. We use water and energy efficient equipment, solar power and composting practices. We also use sheep in the vineyard to reduce grass rather than mowing it, which further reduces our diesel consumption. Revegetation of the property and roller crimping of crops in the middle of the rows also helps maintain organic matter in the vineyard and promotes water retention.

SWA is a continuous improvement approach, based on knowing your metrics like water, electricity and fuel consumption. It’s much easier to demonstrate improvement when you have information that quantifies your inputs and emissions. It’s all the little things that add up: environmental management and sustainable practices, combining to have a big impact.

In 2017, your role expanded to include leading Xanadu’s winemaking efforts. What are the unique challenges and rewards of overseeing winemaking and viticulture?

Winemaking and viticulture go hand in hand, so the most rewarding aspect is seeing people enjoy the fruits of your labor. When it comes to leading Xanadu’s winemaking efforts, I don’t manage the day-to-day operations, but rather oversee the viticulture from a holistic perspective in our own vineyards as well as those of our growers. I handle all of the relationships with our growers, some of whom we’ve worked with for nearly two decades, so it’s rewarding to develop those relationships. At the end of each season, we do an allocation tasting where we taste all of our wines with the growers. I always love seeing the look on their faces when they taste wines made from grapes they’ve grown themselves. It’s a great opportunity to give each other constructive feedback and it’s nice to invite them to be a part of this larger team.

The challenges we face are primarily seasonal. For example, 2024 was a very dry year, which brought challenges we have never faced before, but overall, Margaret River is a grape growing paradise. Compared to other regions, both in Australia and around the world, we are doing well. But that doesn’t mean we can rest on our laurels.

Your wife, Eloise Jarvis, is also a talented winemaker. How does this shared passion for wine impact your personal and professional life?

As young parents, it was certainly very difficult to juggle our family and our careers. I am very grateful to Eloise, who decided to end her career as a winemaker while we raised our children. Now that the children are older and more independent, Eloise has immersed herself back in the wine industry: she has been a consultant and has also worked for large companies.

This shared passion has also given birth to our own label, La Kooki Wines, which she is the driving force behind. It’s an opportunity for us to create wines with our own personal touch. She’s always been my secret weapon: I can taste something at work, then take it home and show it to someone who’s never seen it before and they’ll give me an honest opinion.

You are known for your love of the ocean and fresh seafood. Can you describe a memorable experience pairing a Xanadu wine with a dish you caught or prepared yourself?

When people visit Margaret River it is always a pleasure to introduce them not only to Margaret River wines but also to the place itself. When the opportunity arises and the conditions are right I like to take people to the beach for a surf or maybe to pick abalone, fish or go crabbing. It is always fun to eat abalone with people, especially when it is a new experience for them.

It is a good idea to put on a mask and snorkel for visitors who may not have seen these shells before and to immerse them in the water. The abalone eggs that we collect on our shores are not huge in size, but they are absolutely delicious.

The fact that people can catch it, shell it, cook it and then pair it with wine (our Xanadu Sauvignon Blanc Semillon blends pair beautifully with seafood) allows them to appreciate and savor it even more.