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For years, diners across the state have been asking a simple question: “Why aren’t there any Michelin-starred restaurants in Texas?” The answer is simple: The guide doesn’t rate Texas restaurants, but that’s about to change.

On Tuesday, July 16, the Michelin Guide confirmed long-simmering rumors that it would release a Texas edition later this year, covering restaurants in five cities: Austin, Dallas, Fort Worth, Houston and San Antonio.

The Michelin Guides are a series of guides published by the French tire manufacturer Michelin since 1900, with the help of anonymous inspectors. Restaurants can earn one of three designations:

• Michelin stars, rated one, two or three for restaurants that offer exceptional experiences
• Bib Gourmand, described as “restaurants that offer high-quality cuisine at attractive prices”
• Green stars for “leading restaurants in sustainable gastronomy”

Additionally, Michelin may also award a lower “recommended” designation to restaurants that do not quite meet the requirements for a star.

The existence of a Michelin guide for Texas will allow tourists to compare the state’s restaurants with those in other Michelin-rated cities and countries. In the United States, the guide already rates restaurants in parts of California, New York, Washington, D.C., Atlanta, and parts of Florida and Colorado.

There is a cost to launching the guide in Texas, but we don’t know what it is. For example, Florida paid $150,000 to launch its guide, while California paid $600,000 and Colorado paid $135,000. Michelin declined to comment on how much, if anything, the state tourism office, Travel Texas, and the local tourism offices in the five cities paid to bring the guide here.

“The terms of the contract are confidential. Travel Texas is working with Michelin on marketing and promotional activities only. The agreement allows for a collaborative effort to promote the region’s culinary offerings,” Michelin’s Carly Grieff wrote in an email. “The Michelin Guide Texas project was born out of the quality of the state’s culinary scene. The credit for this exciting project goes to the talented Texas restaurant teams who embody culinary innovation. Without them and their exceptional work, it would have been impossible for the Michelin Guide to have the ambition to offer a first selection of Texas restaurants in 2024.”

Do we need Michelin?
As rumors of Michelin’s arrival multiply, a debate rages over whether its arrival will be well received. Robb Report explored the topic in a 2023 paper.

Aaron Bludorn, a chef and owner of three Houston-area restaurants who held a star as the manager of New York’s Café Boulud, told the magazine he wasn’t thrilled with the move. “I was tired of Michelin,” he told the magazine. “(It) gives you a freedom without Michelin being there.”

“I don’t really see why they shouldn’t come,” Dallas chef Casey La Rue said in the article. “Right now, the only reason to go to Texas, from an outsider’s perspective, would be for barbecue. Nobody looks at the state or any of the big cities for anything other than that… If we had Michelin stars, we would be able to get more recognition and be more legitimate.”

Others may wonder if Michelin is relevant to a city known for its chains. Will Michelin conquer Dallas?

Typically, the top two and three stars in the guide go to establishments with very expensive tasting menus. In Dallas, this is limited to omakase joints like Tatsu and Shoyo.

Diners can also look at how the guide treats restaurants in other cities to get a sense of what to expect. For example, neither New York nor Miami’s Carbone Italian restaurant currently holds a star, and it seems unlikely that the Dallas restaurant will get one.

The only thing that is certain is that the arrival of the Michelin guide will change the way Texas eats. Restaurants might change their menus or service styles to suit the guide’s tastes. Operators from other cities might be more likely to open a Texas branch in hopes of earning a star. Others might reject the guide’s conventions altogether and continue to chart their own course.

If nothing else, it gives us something to debate, especially once the state’s first star recipients are revealed later this year.