Perhentian revisited: idyllic yet terrifying

The last time I visited Perhentian Island, off the coast of Terengganu, was ten years ago. I remember the accommodation was very basic and cheap.

Everyone we met was friendly, helpful and all tourists, whether domestic or foreign, were treated equally.

I always felt at an advantage because I spoke the local dialect, which often guaranteed me a small discount.

Back then, there was no market segmentation; everyone came for the same reasons: to swim and snorkel, and to enjoy the beautiful underwater corals, teeming with colorful marine life.

Terengganu is blessed with Perhentian, Redang and many other islands off its coast. These are renowned marine parks that attract tourists from all over the world.

Boat operators

My boatman, Akram (not his real name), is one of the many who organizes snorkeling trips for tourists. He is an intelligent and hard-working young man who shared many anecdotes about this place.

Akram worked for another towkay for many years before deciding to invest all his savings into buying his own boat and outboard motor. The boat, purchased from a builder based in Dungun, cost him about RM25,000.

The outboard motor cost him twice as much, at RM50,000. It was financed through a scheme offered by the motor’s distributor. It would have cost Akram 25% less if he had paid cash, which he could not afford.

These days, he charges tourists RM70 per person for a snorkelling tour that starts at 10am and ends at 4pm, and includes a lunch stop at a fishing village.

Akram’s 26-foot boat can accommodate about 15 passengers, but is rarely full due to strong competition from many other operators.

To supplement his income, he also travels back and forth between Kuala Besut and the cottage operators, collecting recycled dry waste for a small fee. This helps keep the island clean and is one of the main reasons tourists return.

Local economy

Tourism provides a significant boost to the local economy.

Local people – from boat operators ferrying tourists between Kuala Besut and the islands of Perhentian Kecil and Perhentian Besar, to operators of cottages, cafes, restaurants, fishermen supplying fish, food suppliers, laundry operators and many others further down the supply chain – are all well aware of the importance of the sector.

The demand for boats, for example, has boosted the shipbuilding industry in Terengganu and increased employment opportunities.

Every tourist visiting the island pays a marine park fee of RM10, presumably for maintenance, safe navigation and nature protection.

In addition, an 8% sales and service tax (SST) is applied to tourists staying on the island and the food and beverages they consume. At the current rate of RM700 per night, the SST for a single room is around RM56.

With over a thousand rooms on these islands, most of which are fully occupied during the summer months, the revenue generated is significant.

I don’t want to calculate how much Putrajaya earns daily from SST, but it cannot be an insignificant amount.

The question is what happens to the taxes collected. Does the federal government reinvest these revenues in improving infrastructure and facilities here?

The largest group of foreign tourists

The Kuala Besut departure jetty is in poor and deplorable condition, and is congested.

There are no proper drop-off and waiting areas, no toilets in sight, and even less of a terminal for arriving and departing passengers. Passengers are forced to wait in a run-down, trash-strewn cafe, which is not at all conducive.

And yet, this place caters to international tourists who spend thousands of ringgit to support the local economy.

During this trip, I noticed many Spanish, French, Italian and Swedish speakers, as well as dozens of Japanese and Chinese tourists. However, there are no information boards or signage other than in Bahasa Melayu.

Today, Perhentian probably receives the highest number of foreign tourists per square kilometre compared to any other destination in Malaysia. The revenue generated here is enormous.

The natural beauty of Perhentian has provided many opportunities for local people to participate and provide services to these foreign visitors. The economic benefits are commendable and require sustainable efforts.

But the federal government must also play its part.

Despite the significant taxes collected, the infrastructure and facilities provided are poor and inadequate to make this place sustainable.

Nowadays, a new ultra-luxurious five-star hotel has even been built in Perhentian Kecil. Guests are said to be arriving there on luxury yachts, amphibious aircraft and even helicopters. This should certainly provide new sources of revenue for the government.

But I can only imagine how these new hotel guests would feel waiting at the non-existent terminal in Kuala Besut.

Perhaps our Minister of Tourism could pay a little visit and see it for himself.

The opinions expressed are those of the author and do not necessarily reflect those of FMT.