Multi-million pound refurbished European resort also offers nearby scenic train rides and ‘best pasta’

SIPING an espresso on the terrace of the Hôtel Grand Des Iles Borromées is a moment I will never forget.

It’s the perfect spot in the Italian town of Stresa, on the shores of Lake Maggiore, to feast your eyes on the sparkling water bordered by forested mountain peaks.

ShutterstockThe enchanting island of Isola Bella on Lake Maggiore(/caption)

AlamyAdmire the vibrant flowers of Isola Madre(/caption)

I’m not the only one wowed by the scenery: Queen Victoria once rented a villa here, and the historic five-star hotel has been welcoming royalty, celebrities and dignitaries for over 160 years.

Named after the family who own the lake’s three Borromean Islands, it is certainly grand after a brilliant multi-million pound restoration.

Exuding classic Italian grandeur and set in landscaped gardens, the hotel sparkles as brilliantly as the lake.

Murano chandeliers sparkle in the marble hallways and in every ornate, gilded room.

You may not want to leave anymore

Roman statues are scattered throughout and the attentive staff are dressed as footmen in dark green uniforms.

I even imagined that the writer Ernest Hemingway, being treated at the hotel after World War I, might tip his hat and wink at me from across the piano bar.

There’s a chance you won’t want to leave this heavenly hotel, spending sleepy afternoons in its chic new spa or lounging by the pool.

It was difficult to leave my room alone, with its intricately corniced ceilings, chandelier and damask walls.

But an assortment of experiences bookable through Tui Lakes and Mountains will tempt you.

A thrilling train ride through the Swiss Alps and meeting a (long-lost) saint up close provided even more incredible memories, as did mornings spent swimming in the lake.

But pasta making in Italy was a must-see. Stresa resident Gisella Motta invited us into her beautiful home to discover the secrets passed down in her family’s restaurant.

To get the tastiest pasta, she advised us to crack two eggs into a well of 200g flour, while most recipes only call for one.

The Grand Hotel des Iles Borromées has welcomed many famous guests(/caption)

HandoutTake a dip in the hotel’s tree-lined pool to cool off(/caption)

Then whisk with a finger, knead until ready to roll, and continue rolling.

A continuous dusting of flour helps keep the dough dry.

Our sauce was made with just four ingredients: Gorgonzola, Parmesan, milk and walnuts.

It was the best pasta I have ever tasted – and Gisella’s wine pairing and dessert of homemade Margheritine di Stresa biscuits, named after the first Queen of Italy who grew up in Stresa, topped off the evening.

In Stresa there are many places to eat deliciously.

Lo Stornello offers traditional local cuisine such as polenta, risotto and lake fish.

La Papagollo pizzeria offers unforgettable pizzas, whose dough is left to rise for 24 hours and then rest for another 36. I vowed to return just for the Contadinella, topped with apples, gorgonzola and pistachios.

The wine tasting at Al Buscion costs 20 euros per person — it includes generous portions of Piedmontese white and red wines, as well as a dreamy cheese platter accompanied by delicious meats and soft focaccia bread.

Gisella MottaMary tries her hand at making pasta during a cooking class(/caption)

Delicious pizzas are available at Pizzeria La Papagollo(/caption)

Another Tui experience not to be missed is the Lake Maggiore Express train ride from Domodossola to Locarno in neighbouring Switzerland.

It promises two hours of breathtaking views of lush Alpine landscapes and pretty villages, as the train crosses stone bridges and passes through mountain tunnels.

The onboard trolley serves Aperol Spritz as well as snacks and other drinks.

We descend to Santa Maria Maggiore for a visit to the Chimney Sweep Museum, which tells stories of Italian children sent to work in European cities during the Victorian era.

It now hosts an annual festival to honor them and welcomes visitors from all over the world.

The island palaces

Arriving in Locarno, we had time to quickly enjoy a caprese salad of mozzarella, fresh tomatoes and basil before boarding a boat at the northern tip of Lake Maggiore, where it extends into Switzerland, for our return to Stresa via the Borromean islands of Madre, Bella and Pescatori.

Owned by the Borromeo family, the islands’ palaces and botanical gardens are now open to the public.

The Borromeans were so wealthy that they once had their own army — and the Isola Bella palace, where marble columns line the ballroom, gives Buckingham Palace a run for its money.

Under the palace are volcanic stone vaults that served as natural air conditioning for the family in summer.

On Isola Madre, the family’s “summer house” is another stunning mansion, with a theatre room filled with antique dolls and puppets that would probably terrify modern children.

Even though I was tempted to collapse on a lounge chair on my last day, I’m so glad we made the pilgrimage too.

Marie Gallagher

We also visited Pescatori (Fisherman’s Island) for an al fresco lunch at the Belvedere restaurant. I devoured a plate of pike on a bed of capers with anchovies from the Cantabrian Sea.

Although I was tempted to collapse on a lounge chair on my last day, I’m so glad we also made the pilgrimage by car and water taxi to Isola San Giulio on nearby Lake Orta.

The body of St. Julius is displayed in a glass case in the island’s very special church.

Attached to the ancient basilica is a convent which houses a community of 75 silent nuns, who stay there for life.

After paying our respects, we follow the island’s meditation walk around the religious house.

This part of Italy is perhaps my favorite place and I thank our Tui guide for bringing me here. I know I will return.