Guide to St John’s, the Iceberg Capital of Atlantic Canada

This article was produced by National Geographic Traveler (UNITED KINGDOM).

You can tell a lot about a place by how it welcomes its visitors. In St. John’s, the capital of Newfoundland, an island off Canada’s east coast, visitors are welcomed to the city with a “screech-in” ceremony (a ritual involving drinking a shot of rum at a bar and reciting a local dialect, before kissing a glassy-eyed codfish). The welcome, a nod to the days when the fish was traded for Jamaican rum, sets the tone for a destination that stands out from the mainland, both geographically and culturally, and where things are done a little differently.

St. John’s remote location on Newfoundland’s eastern tip has long been part of its windswept charm. In summer, it offers prime viewing spots for everything from migrating whales and puffins to colossal icebergs. But access to the city’s rugged coastline became less of a challenge in May 2024 with the launch of a direct WestJet flight from London that takes just five hours.

Less than four miles from St. John’s International Airport, the city’s downtown core is extremely walkable. Since opening in 1984, the rustic Trapper John’s The pub has attracted about 150,000 visitors, who leave with a certificate proclaiming themselves honorary Newfoundlanders. Nearby is George Street, a bustling strip of bars and pubs where old-time folk music spills out the doors. It’s just one of the myriad ways St. John’s Celtic roots live on, from the lilting local dialect to the sea shanty lyrics posted on The RoomsThis museum tells the story of the local indigenous people, as well as the European settlers who worked the local fisheries in the 16th century, when cod was king.

In recent years, St. John’s food scene has stolen the spotlight as a new wave of chefs have jumped on the bandwagon. Earth Restaurant. Chef and owner Matthew Swift, who relocated from Ontario, has created a hyper-local menu that sings of the sea, which can be seen through his dining room window. Opt for the “let the kitchen cook for you” option and they’ll roll out the culinary red carpet with raw scallops dipped in brown butter and radishes grown in the on-site greenhouse.

Bang in front is Carryinga neighbourhood hangout that has earned a reputation as one of the country’s most innovative restaurants for its fusion of Newfoundland and Southeast Asian cuisine, while still being within easy reach Chinched is a delicatessen serving up head-to-toe delicacies, including crispy pig ears. Finish your meal with a stroll through the town centre, whose streets are lined with rows of wooden houses painted in a rainbow of colours. Legend has it that these hues guided fishermen home through the fog that hangs heavy in the air in winter and spring.

On a clear day, a mile-long hike from downtown to Signal Hill—topped by a castle-like structure that received the first transatlantic wireless message in 1901—rewards with scenes of wild cliffs. For those who make the climb, The Battery Cafe offers a comfortable stop for coffee with an optional splash of Canadian maple syrup. From the summit, follow the Ladies Lookout Trail, a wilderness trail that winds for just over a mile through an eagle colony, leading to the fishing port of Whodi Vidi. Quidi Vidi Brewery serves beer brewed with iceberg water, while offering views of the fishing boats bobbing gently outside.

Keep your eyes peeled for moose along the nine-mile drive from downtown St. John’s to the Cape Spear Lighthouse. Here, two lighthouses—the original from 1836 and the other built in 1955—shine their unwavering beacons from Canada’s easternmost point, beyond the crashing waves. And if you’ve come all this way, consider a longer excursion from St. John’s to Fogo Island, 280 miles north off Newfoundland’s east coast. It’s a four-hour drive along stretches of coastline and through the Canadian wilderness, then a ferry ride. A stay in Fogo Island Inn a unique 29-room stilt retreat that has revitalized this former fishing community, well worth the extra work.

Three highlights not to be missed in St John’s:

1. Carrying
The union of two renowned Canadian chefs, Ross Larkin and his pastry partner Celeste Mah, has helped cement St John’s place on the culinary map. Dishes like snow crab with lemon mayonnaise and banh mi salad are served in a casual dining room, or stop by the chef’s table to see the kitchen in action.

2. Whodi Vidi
It’s easy to while away an afternoon in this quaint fishing village, set around a horseshoe-shaped wharf. Quidi Vidi Village Artisan Studios is a great place to pick up some handcrafted items to take home, including ceramic sculptures of the area’s beloved puffins and hand-sewn quilts.

3. Fogo Island Inn
With rooms starting from CA$1,975 (£1,340) per night, a stay at this destination hotel is a luxury unlike any other. Come immerse yourself in the island’s culture, with boat-building workshops or a cod fishing trip followed by songs and stories around the campfire.

Published in the September 2024 issue of National Geographic Traveler (UNITED KINGDOM).

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