Kudos to Fairfax Brewing Co., the city’s newest brewery – Marin Independent Journal

This week, the opening of Fairfax Brewing Co. by a group of Marin locals breathes new life into the former Iron Springs Pub & Brewery space in Fairfax. The full-service gastropub not only revives a 25-year-old brewery that dates back to Iron Springs’ predecessor, Ross Valley Brewing Co., but also introduces the city’s first namesake beer brand.

In true community fashion, the brewery is supported by local investment from 38 local ambassadors dedicated to continuing the tradition built by and for Marin families, started by Fairfax couple Michael and Anne Altman, who closed Iron Springs and retired in 2021 after 17 years in operation. Two iterations of Santa Rosa-based HenHouse Brewing Co. followed in the same location but did not last.

Alex and Lisa Stricker, co-owners of State Room Brewery and Flatiron in San Rafael, are partners in the project. Stricker, also a partner in San Rafael-based gourmet food delivery service Jessie and Laurent, describes his role as that of a visionary and collaborator, but credits the ambitious launch to his co-founders, brewmaster Larry Berlin and executive chef and Fairfax native Dan McGarry.

Berlin was the original brewmaster at Ross Valley Brewing Co. and stayed in Iron Springs for a few years. Before returning to “his favorite city” of Fairfax, his brewing journey took him from Southern California to Chico and places in between, including a stint at Lagunitas Brewing Co. in its early days. Berlin has been with State Room Brewery since it opened in 2016.

McGarry (Duke’s in Huntington Beach and Guy Fieri’s Signature Restaurants in Sonoma County) will handle the front and back of the house, returning to his hometown with what Strickler describes as a simple, approachable and well-executed menu.

Beer-pairing staples include a white cheddar cheeseburger, crispy chicken sandwich, three-cheese nachos with housemade chips, pickled jalapeños and veggies, pilsner-battered fish and chips, chicken wings (buffalo, lemon pepper, spicy sweet or sticky Asian) and garlic, herb and parmesan fries.

Dishes like pork lumpia with sweet chili vinegar sauce, Korean short ribs, Thai soba noodle salad, yellowfin tuna tacos with avocado mousse, seaweed salad and furikake, and blackened red shrimp España with paprika aioli toast add an international touch.

The kids’ menu includes a build-your-own bento box with your choice of main dish (buttered pasta, chicken tenders, hot dog), carrots, fries, an apple and a cookie ($15).

Double 8 Dairy ice cream made with buffalo milk comes with the option of chocolate, caramel or M&M’s dusting on top.

The draft lineup includes Pastori Pilsner, Fuego Fuerte Mexican Lager, Railway Rice Lager, Sleeping Lady IPA, Liquid Sunshine Double IPA, Tamalpais Triple, Passionfruit Sour and more. Fans of Repack Red, the first beer brewed on the Ross Valley Brewing Co. system, will be happy to hear it has resurfaced.

Pilsner, Sleeping Lady IPA and Repack Red are currently available in cans at the restaurant, with more varieties coming soon. Over time, these beers will appear in local restaurants, bars and retail stores.

Wine spritzers, champagne cocktails, mimosas and aperitifs also feature on the drinks menu, along with Berlin’s house-made root beer and orange cream soda, as well as cold beer and rosé on tap.

The interior has been refreshed with updated design elements. High-top tables are centered around the bar, which is separated by a partition from the seating area, which includes a mix of tables and booths and a semi-private dining area for reservations of up to 20 people.

Picnic tables line the sidewalk and dog park. An expansion of the bike park is in the works.

For entertainment, the game room in the back has vintage Skee-Ball machines and a four-player Pac-Man game. In the restroom, an audio recording from a broadcaster provides insight into the world history of beer.

“My motto throughout this process has been to not let Fairfax take care of us, but to take care of them,” Stricker says, adding that over time, the menu, beer styles and décor may change. “We want it to be an extension of people’s living rooms.”

Fairfax Brewing Co. is open from 11:30 a.m. to 9 p.m. weekdays and 11:30 a.m. to 10 p.m. weekends at 765 Center Blvd. in Fairfax. For more information or to make a reservation, visit faxbrewco.com or call 415-859-9551.

Restaurant offers

The second annual Mill Valley Restaurant Gathering returns September 15-22, when 10 restaurants will offer three-course prix fixe menus ($55 to $65) and a specialty cocktail ($10) featuring local distiller Batiste Rhum.

In honor of Sweetwater Music Hall’s 50-plus year legacy of live music, many restaurants thematically name their dishes after a favorite band or genre.

Participating venues and inspired menus include Buckeye Roadhouse (KISS); Bungalow 44 (1970s and 1980s classics); Corner Bar (Pearl Jam, Huey Lewis and the News, Carlos Santana and the Wailers); Gravity Tavern (Led Zeppelin); Paseo Bistro (Grateful Dead); Piatti; Piazza D’Angelo (Michael Jackson, Bobby Darin, the Beatles and Eurythmics); Playa (Carlos Santana and Deep Purple); Rock & Rye at Sweetwater (Sweetwater’s greatest hits); and Watershed (Rolling Stones).

Additionally, Mamahuhu and Boo Koo will be offering a 20% discount on on-site meals during the week.

To find the full menu, visit marinmagazine.com/food-drink/dining-news/the-2nd-annual-mill-valley-restaurant or reserve a table on the restaurant’s website.

Leanne Battelle is a freelance food writer and restaurant columnist. Email her at [email protected] with news and recommendations and follow her on Instagram @therealdealmarin for more local cuisine and updates on the launch of The Real Deal Marin restaurant finder guide.

Originally published: September 10, 2024 at 3:00 p.m.