Elphaba’s dress in ‘Wicked’ was inspired by Mushroom Gills

As Paul Tazewell conceived design ideas for “Wicked,” mushroom gills served as an unlikely inspiration for Elphaba’s black dress.

The costume designer found a documentary about mushrooms. Tazewell says, “I became aware of the beauty of different types of mushrooms because of the different texture and colors.”

Tazewell was tasked with designing the costumes for “Wicked,” starring Cynthia Erivo as Elphaba and Ariana Grande as Glinda. The idea of ​​aligning Elphaba with nature came from the character’s history.

Says Tazewell: “She is an oppressed little girl who is being criticized because of the color of her skin and ostracized even within her family.” He added that because of his connection and alliance with the animal community he turned to nature to define what his look would be like, and that’s when mushrooms became the inspiration.

Talking to Variety, Tazewell says the idea was “to create a look and have it come from a place of naturalness and strength that contrasts with what her power is and the fact that she can defy gravity.” He adds: “It felt appropriate and how I wanted to represent her. She is an animal advocate and, being marginalized, finds more solace in nature than in the people around her.”

Tazewell, whose career spans Broadway (“Hamilton,” “Suffs”), TV (“The Wiz!”) and film (“Harriet,” “West Side Story”), says: “By holding mushrooms and seeing that pleated quality, it became about interpreting that in fabric and texture.” He used felted fabric, gauze and chiffon to make the dress. “The way we were able to manipulate it created the idea of ​​the lower part of a mushroom.”

As for finding the pink for Glinda’s bubble dress, Tazewell looked to the original 1939 film “The Wizard of Oz” and the dress worn by Billie Burke. While the costume designer knew it was important to nod to the original Glinda and capture the “iconic” creation, Tazewell opted for a softer pink and warmer tone that became her new design.

The silhouette of the dress had a structured, hand-embroidered and beaded bodice that opens into a bell shape. Tazewell also wanted to keep it translucent. He says, “It gives us a lighter-than-air quality.”

He used different types of crinoline, tulle and silk organza for the ombre design fabric so that the pink got darker as it went towards the face. Says Tazewell: “We added swirling bubbles to the pattern that was printed on the organza and had embroidery at the bottom.”