Vaishali S. is ready to offer a waste-free couture show in Paris

Designer Vaishali S. is all set to present her latest fall/winter collection in Paris on June 24, during Haute Couture Week.

Title Satori, the collection is made with hand-woven cotton and silks. The garment embellishments were first developed for her home decor collection, which she showcased in Mumbai earlier this year, she informs. These are made by reusing scraps (she always uses scraps for crafting) from different fabrics on the same outfit.

In an interview with Living room, Shadangule talks about the collection and how she finds clarity of design thinking in a busy industry. Edited excerpts:

How does this collection advance the essence and style of your design?

My collections are all part of deeper research and development. Drape and cordage, as well as hand-woven fabrics, form the basis of my work, they are a coherent part of this path and the means to achieve it. In this collection, they intertwine more and help each other. In my collections so far, the rope would give shapes and an impression of fluidity in a second step. Then came the draping to give the final look. In this collection, draping combines with cording, which supports this new way of draping to create new silhouettes. I wanted to say “aha!” moment in the collection.

Tell us a little about the silhouettes in this collection.

I felt the need to give the silhouettes a more global appearance, more enveloping around the body, but faithful and close to the beautiful Indian draping techniques.

That’s why I used stringing and all handwork techniques to give a flat multi-layered effect and a three-dimensional flow of energy. You’ll see relatively simpler designs with deeper, more complex structure, and more feminine, wraparound silhouettes.

Why did it take you so long to come up with more global forms?

I don’t read anything about trends, silhouettes, or colors. I am deeply connected to nature, it is my only inspiration. Maybe that’s why it took me longer to arrive at more global shapes.

Will we see more interior design and other design activities from you soon?

Yes. I found real pleasure in working and launching my interior collection. For me, fashion is an art form; it is my language to share my emotions while feeling the flow of energy. Likewise, interiors, or painting (which I practice as much as music) are means of expression. Having the opportunity to “expand” my language and deepen my research is exciting.

Who is the buyer of Vaishali S. today?

Of course, many NRIs with whom we share a love of Indian heritage, but also a taste for modern design.

I think the buyer of the Vaishali S is the woman of today, a woman who wants to have a voice and a personal style, to dare new silhouettes and techniques.

What do you think about the Indian fashion industry today?

The Indian fashion industry is still very distracted by the bride, focusing entirely on increasingly rich bridal wear and less attention to personal life and the finer things in everyday life. I feel like it’s moving slowly and I hope we get back to everyday design and quality.

As one of my great designer friends says: Indian fashion is a land of kings and queens for weddings and shorts for the rest of time.

Commerce versus artistic freedom: is it a tightrope exercise?

It is indeed a tightrope. So far, I’ve worked on carving out my space and personality, following a very cohesive and clean path, which hasn’t necessarily translated into huge sales. I developed the image, perception and recognition (especially abroad) of the brand. In this competitive world, having a strong, consistent narrative and personality ultimately pays off.