Tod's Matteo Tamburini celebrates artisanal intelligence

The message that Tod’s and the brand’s artistic director, Matteo Tamburini, wanted to convey for spring was strong and clear.

A monumental sculpture by artist Lorenzo Quinn was placed in this vast space, the Macchi foundry in Milan. It consists of two giant plaster hands holding crossed strips of leather, which the artist said symbolise Tod’s craftsmanship, Italian know-how and the importance of manual work. Alongside the artwork, the company’s artisans, all dressed in white robes, were seen hand-sewing Tod’s iconic gommino loafers.

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The stage was set for Tamburini’s celebration of “artisanal intelligence,” emphasizing the value of the individual – a message reiterated by Tod’s Chairman and CEO Diego Della Valle on the sidelines of the show.

Sure, there was leather, as is often the case at Tod’s, but made light, like in a pretty green pleated dress. The starting point was a trip along the Mediterranean coast, “starting in Italy, of course,” Tamburini explained with a smile, which meant “a more relaxed approach in terms of shapes and materials compared to autumn.” On his mood board, photos of Luigi Ghirri, the rarefied atmosphere of the beaches having inspired the designer.

This gave rise to patterns never before seen at Tod’s: stripes on crisp cotton and checks printed upside down on very light cotton skirts and tops, which had a veiled effect.

For its mixed collection, Tamburini revisits the cotton and leather trench coat with new flowing volumes and different lengths. They are chic, practical and comfortable at the same time. The windbreakers are developed in resin-coated cotton or super-light napa.

Suits with short jackets were more fitted.

Sandals were oversized and flat, and several bags and pumps were made from reptile, ostrich and crocodile skins – one carried by Naomi Campbell in a new bucket-bag shape – further elevating the collection’s level of luxury.

Tod’s signature gommino-soled loafer was also presented in sabot form, with a more pronounced toe, and some models featured gold-tone metal rings, a detail that also embellished some dresses.

With his second collection for Tod’s, Tamburini proves that he embraces the universe, aesthetics and values of the brand while pushing the boundaries further, experimenting with volumes, fabrics and cuts.

Launch Gallery: Tod’s Spring 2025 Ready-to-Wear Collection

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